GORONGOSA, Mozambique: Passing through the aged faded gates into Gorongosa National Park, it’s difficult to imagine you’ve just entered Mozambique’s largest wildlife sanctuary.
Bled dry by a long civil war that ravaged Mozambique from 1976 to 1992, the park has seen a remarkable turnaround in the last decade.
But even as it rises from the ashes, a fresh bout of conflict and a devastating drought threaten to undermine its revival.
Big mammals like elephants and buffalos are still rare in this 4,000 square kilometre reserve, but a restoration project launched by American philanthropist Greg Carr in 2004 has seen the return of species once on the brink of extinction.
"Before the launch of this project, we were heading towards extinction," Gorongosa conservation head Pedro Muagara told AFP.
"Now, in terms of reproduction, there are very positive signs. The numbers are growing."
Today, the park has more than 72,000 animals from 20 different species, mainly antelopes and zebras.
But even as wild life returned to Gorongosa, political tensions were growing. Since 2013, sporadic fighting has broken out between government forces and rebels from the main opposition Renamo party.
Refusing to accept the results of the 2014 national vote, Renamo leader Afonso Dhlakama has holed himself up in the mountains bordering the park.
For villagers fleeing the unrest, the unfenced Gorongosa has proved an easy refuge and food source.
Decked out in his khaki ranger’s uniform, Muagara is one of the 150 armed rangers protecting animals from poachers and illegal hunters.
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