Henna: A cash crop to ‘dye’ for

HYDERABAD: An ever increasing market for henna (Lawsonia inermis) products, in urban and rural areas, has given rise to a very strong demand for the cultivation of this fascinating cash crop, whose dye is used to colour skin, hair, and fingernails, and fabrics like silk, wool, and leather.

Reports, pouring in from the henna producing areas, reveal traditional farmers seem to have been inspired to grow this valuable crop in Sindh province by the practices of their ancestors.

The two areas, popularly known for producing high quality henna, are Mehar in Dadu district and Tharo Shah in Naushehro Feroz district. It needs to be noted that henna cultivation is not common in this time when growers have fixed priorities to produce wheat, rice, sugarcane, cotton, and vegetables.

Only some farmers, who still maintain old gardens planted by their elders 40-50 years ago, are continuing the practice. That’s why these specific areas are known for producing best quality henna.

Though, water scarcity has affected the cultivation, the farmers, as always, have opted for alternatives like tube wells to irrigate this colouring crop.

“The per acre production ranges from 8 to 20 maunds (40kgs), depending on soil, water and care,” Abdul Qadir Dahri, a farmer in Naushehro Feroz district, said and added that the newly planted crop matures in three years.

“We harvest two to three crops during a year’s growth cycle, harvesting from the same plant season after season,” Dahri said.

To a question, he said the first year harvest yields about 8-10 maunds per acre, the second year up to 10-15 maunds and upon reaching maturity average output reaches up to 20-25 maunds per acre.

“This shrub can survive for many years. Farmers have to cut its branches for drying and processing after every two-three months and leave the shrub to grow back new shoots with one or two waters,” the henna farmer explained.

Traditionally, he said, farmyard manure is helpful for the growth of this shrub, but now farmers have started using chemical fertilisers to boost its growth.

“Obviously there is no specific time of harvest. The first harvest starts at the end of May and continues to the beginning of June,” Dahri said adding, “The second starts in August or September after the monsoon season, while the third kicks off in November and December.”

According to farmers, some of their peers have set up henna nurseries that are very low-cost.

"There is no specific size of the nursery. Similarly, there is no specific number of plants on each acre. Planting of nurseries starts from March and continues up to May. A nursery gets ready for transplanting in two months," said another farmer Abdul Rashid Dahri.

He said farmers mostly buy its seed from local growers, who preserve it, whereas local factories can be a better option to buy seed for nursery plantation.

“There are many areas where wild henna plants grow but are of no use. Monsoon is a better season for plant growth. This shrub quickly puts out new growth during rains,” said Rashid Dahri.

About cultivation of this crop there is no specific guide for farmers. They follow the old practices and maintain soil fertility levels through farmyard manure on their own. They believe that use of farmyard manure is necessary for its nutritional requirements and keep the plant healthy and productive.

Growers say there is no contribution from the concerned government departments to guide and educate farmers about changes in its cultivation method and marketing for better yields and income. “Despite being a high potential cash crop, no research has been conducted with regards to its farming on modern grounds to improve production,” a farmer said.

Upon reaching maturity, a chain of traders and exporters derives three or more colours mainly red, black, and neutral from its leaves, roots, and branches through drying and processing.

Reports show that a number of companies are manufacturing ready-to-apply henna products, which are easily available in markets. Reportedly, some greedy manufacturers have started mixing other trees’ leaves with henna leaves, denting its quality. Most of the henna products available in market are said to be substandard. Apart from this, there is no check to verify the quality of the chemical used in the manufacturing process.

On the other hand, henna farmers say they will never compromise on the standard of quality set by their forefathers.

Anyway, the ancient art of decorating hands, feet, arms, and even other parts of body using henna continues to remain vogue more than ever. Forward-looking artists and designers have come up with thousands of elaborate patterns and tattoos. Fashion and make-up maestros are employing the amazing colours of henna in endlessly innovative ways to embellish the elegance of women’s bridal, festive, and party looks.

That said, on top of water shortage, henna farmers also face problems owing to lack of nearby storage facilities. Awareness among farmers regarding the scientific farming is another issue.

Henna growers have called on the government to establish processing and manufacturing units in their areas. These facilities, when established along with essential market infrastructure, will enable farmers to earn more on top of creating awareness as to how to make the most of their product through value-addition and export promotion.

A large number of workers depend on henna cultivation, harvesting, processing, and packing for their livelihoods. As the high potential of henna cultivation now stands proved, its farmers should be provided with proper facilities at field and market level, so they could be empowered not only financially but also agriculturally.