Spiritual dichotomies — the dual shades of Ancholi

Karachi

Passing through the lanes of Ancholi on the eve of 3rd Shabaan, it is worth seeing the celebrations associated with a month held in high reverence by the Shia community.

The road leading to the Imambargah and Masjid Khairul Amal is covered in shades of red, green and gold as the glimmering lights signify the onset of celebrations of the month associated with the birth of personalities, especially the sibling trio, who played a key role in the tragedy of Karbala.

The Block-20 area, known for the commotion during Muharram and Safar, the two months of mourning for the community, wears a similar look except the dichotomies become very apparent. The month, which begins with the birth of Bibi Zainab (RA), goes on to the birth dates of brothers Hazrat Hussain (RA) and Hazrat Abbas (RA) on 3rd and 4th Shabaan respectively.

While the whole area is packed with dwellers on the first 10 days of Muharram, it can be safely said that the situation is not too different on the night of 2nd Shabaan as it takes a good 10 minutes just to reach the main stage where the devotees recite manqabat - perhaps this is where a different outlook of the place comes about because it is the same area where four months later the attendees, irrespective of their religious backgrounds, will be reciting marsiyas, nohas (elegies) and shedding tears for those whose births are now being celebrated.

Looking at the little ones who run past each other, one is greeted by a warm tug as a child offers a sweet as an act of sharing happiness, but soon the attention of the crowd is diverted to the rooftop where a group places many Annars, a popular type of firework, and many sparks are released with the zooming sound of one Anaar to be replaced by another.

But perhaps this festivity has picked up quite a lot over the last 10 years because according to an old resident the sight and sounds used to be quite different: “In previous times, there was a simple milaad and the decoration of lights wasn’t that grand in comparison with Muharram or Eid-e-Ghadeer. However now, the whole road is full of people, so much so it’s difficult to cross over,” said Hasan who has been living in the area for the last 30 years.

Imran Naqvi, who is also a member of the Kherul Amal Trust, shared that the body had divided the events in three days covering men, women and children.

“Given that this month also marks birth of Hazrat Ali Akbar and Hazrat Qasim, sons of Hazrat Hussain (RA) and Hazrat Hasan (RA) respectively, we hold different events for everyone including children. On 2nd Shabaan, we hold a quiz competition for children and distribute gifts to around 100 children; on the 3rd we hold an event for men where poets and speakers participate and on the 4th we organise a milaad for women.”

However this time around, they did not have a fireworks display because it cost them Rs0.2 million, rather they decided to spend around Rs0.3 million on decorating the zarri of the imambargah.

Muhammad Haider, another resident of Ancholi, shared that followers of different faiths attended the various events held in the area varying from majalis in Muharram to the celebrations in Rajab, Shabaan or Rabi-ul-Awal: “Irrespective of religious differences, all congregations are attended by many, and this time for instance on Shab-e-Barat, people would distribute halwas and would head to the mosques for prayers because it’s not just about firecrackers.”

Under the umbrella of multi-coloured lights, leaving the lane, one is usually greeted by a flag raised high above but unlike the sombre occasion of Muharram when the flag turns black, a red pharera (cloth) can be seen marking the month of jubilations instead, only to be transformed months later signalling the arrival of bereavement.