Chiuri raises banner of feminism in first Dior show

PARIS: She is the first woman ever to lead the legendary French fashion house of Dior. And Maria Grazia Chiuri did not take her rendezvous with history lightly.

In her first show for the label, she went into battle in Paris on Friday under the banner: "We should all be feminists."

In the high point so far of Paris fashion week, the Italian designer -- who wore a Superman necklace for the occasion -- dressed her female models as if preparing mediaeval knights for a joust with destiny.

The line of biker jackets and leather breastplates ended in a plain white T-shirt declaring, "We should all be feminists."

Another would later carry the slogan, "Dior(e)volution" -- hinting that the "safe pair of hands" who took over the leaderless label in the summer would also be flexing her muscles.

It was the first of many surprises from a designer who at Valentino developed a line in romantically austere mediaeval-inspired dresses, somewhere between "Game of Thrones" and Italian Renaissance portraits.

With the cheers of a standing ovation still ringing in her ears, Chiuri, 52, said the show was a cry for equality.

"I am introducing a completely different point of view because I am a woman," she told AFP.

"I have a son and a daughter. I want that they have the same opportunities in life... A lot of people believe that speaking about equality is not essential (anymore). But we have to speak about it because at the moment I am not sure everybody believes in it.

"Sometimes women use more the heart and not the head. They need to balance them."

Chiuri also defended bring back simple T-shirts, and "J´adore Dior" slogans on straps and belts in a collection that in other ways was almost haute couture in its sumptuous detailing.

With the singer Rihanna, actress Natalie Portman and Marion Cotillard and former French first lady Carla Bruno in the front row, Chiuri said that "Dior believed fashion was both evolution and revolution. I started this story and I hope in the future I can tell more of it."