Day Two undid a little of the progress we talked about on Day One – things started considerably late and the 10pm ending was pushed to a yawn inducing 11pm. But once the show started rolling, no one could complain.
Mahgul steals the show on what was overall a great night for fashion.
Lahore
Day Two undid a little of the progress we talked about on Day One – things started considerably late and the 10pm ending was pushed to a yawn inducing 11pm. But once the show started rolling, no one could complain. Where usually hits or hit collections are far and wide between shows, Day Two was a succession of one good outfit after another. It was a good night for fashion with metallics, sporty elements and white sneakers ruling the runway. Nomi Ansari returned to pret with a collection that made everyone go, “I’ll have one of what he’s having”. Ali Xeeshan’s year of banishment also ended and the beatnik designer
showcased a dark, violent video that left the entire crowd disconcerted and then immediately transitioned into upbeat dance music for his presentation. We definitely missed the drama! Sania Maskatiya can always be relied upon to put together a good collection and Karma Pink upped the ante with their shiny, disco clothes but the real revelation of the night was Mahgul Rashid. We’ve spoken about Rashid’s potential
countless times and she lived up to expectations that have been building since her first capsule presentation. Here’s a break-down of what worked, what didn’t and why not.
Mahgul
One of the reasons why we loved this show was because everything we spotted was wearable. From the sneakers with animal cut-outs sewn on them to the envelope clutches with butterfly applique and then the clothes themselves, ORO seemed to be a masterclass in dressing 101. There was something very gangster chic about it; bohemian but less hippie and more hip hop. There was a collective sigh heard when Sabeeka Imam walked out in the asymmetrical, knotted white top and flared pants with everyone mentally adding the outfit to their wish list. Rashid’s collaboration with intrepid jewellery designer Zohra Rahman also paid off in the form of fierce earcuffs and neck pieces that we expect will permeate the red carpet.
Nomi Ansari
Do we credit Lucy and the diamond sky for Ansari’s tripped out collection? Or maybe a healthy dose of inspiration from Moschino’s creative head Jeremy Scott (caution tape print on the sleeves, anyone?). Whatever it was, Ansari’s emoji filled, fashion illustration collection transported us from the Expo Centre in Lahore to a procession of street style stars in Tokyo. Definitely not for the faint-hearted, Ansari’s bright, colourful collection would fit right into Anna Dello Russo’s eclectic closet but he’ll probably have to tone it down for the local audience. That said, Nomi, can we please quit with the ball skirts already? Please. They enjoyed a brief moment of popularity a couple of years ago but they’re dead now. Let’s leave them there and move on.
Ali Xeeshan
What a fun runway return. Xeeshan departed from his usual kaleidoscopic colour palette in favour of monochrome with pops of neon green thrown in. The collection dialed the shine and drama quotient way up and showcased that Xeeshan can do different. There were sporty elements in his collection and it seems that sneakers are the new high heels. We loved the beaten metal detailing on model Areeba Habib’s trench coat on the runway and adored how much bling Xeeshan managed to pack into Farwa Kazim’s outfit without it looking like a disco disaster. Mehreen Syed’s voluminous, balloon hemline dress though was one of the pieces that did not work and neither did the pained expressions on Anam Malik and Hasnain Lehri’s faces as they lugged out metal skeletals of horses and ships. What was up with that Ali?
Sania Maskatiya
Maskatiya is so bankable it’s boring. Not her collection, which was another masterclass in structure and tailoring, but just knowing that whatever she puts out will be fabulous yet safe. It was a beautiful collection, cohesive, meticulous and very wearable but it didn’t keep us on our toes like Xeeshan or Ansari’s collection that challenged our aesthetics and pushed fashion boundaries. It might just be us being nit-picky but we know Mastakiya can do beautiful clothes (that look great on tall, svelte girls) but now we want to see something experimental. It is okay if it doesn’t all work, as long as we get something new out of it.
Karma Pink
From the second Kardar’s funky, upbeat fashion film was screened we had high hopes from the collection. Inspired by, and named after, New York’s iconic nightclub, Studio 54, in the hey-day of the disco era, Kardar’s collection was swishing success. Fayeza Ansari’s opening sequined shift dress and Fia’s fringed single shoulder number were definite hits with their art deco vibe that almost seemed like a throwback to Kardar’s Gatsby collection some years ago. Her pearl encrusted disco ball bags also deserve a special mention for attention to detail and quirkiness. Not all of it worked; the sequined cheetah print pieces still have us on the fence but overall it was a fun, engaging and easy to retail collection.
Nickie Nina
Overheard during their show, “It is understandable when Rising Talent presents something like this but when established designers send a collection of this caliber down the runway, you wonder what’s going on.” We’re a bit unsure about where to begin – the ethos itself was confused. The collection featured bridal embellishment with silhouettes that ranged from East to West and styling that tried too hard. The problem with Nickie Nina is their penchant for putting everything they possess in one collection. They have dramatic sensibilities and like layering, but it doesn’t work in their favour, as evident by their pairing of black pop socks with heels and gold gota. There’s just too much going on and they really need to tone it down. Also, what’s up with transplanting rose bushes in models hair? If we never see flowers in models hair on the runway again, it’ll be too soon.
