The fashion landscape of Pakistan has grown exponentially in the last decade; it has been marked by a boom in retail, the regularization of fashion weeks and a solid international presence.
The fashion landscape of Pakistan has grown exponentially in the last decade; it has been marked by a boom in retail, the regularization of fashion weeks and a solid international presence. Designers who were previously content to operate businesses from home have felt the need to transition to large scale operations as demand increases and the savvy customer seeks out a satisfying retail experience in fashionable surroundings, far removed from a darzi set-up in someone’s backyard.
Karachi-based designer Tena Durrani has experienced a similar growth curve since she first set up her label ten years ago. “It started off as a small tailoring unit in my house in ‘05. I wanted to pursue a degree in architecture and interior from the Indus Valley School of Arts but when I found out I was pregnant, I decided to work from home.” What started off as a hobby took on a life on its own very soon and five years into it, the young designer realized she couldn’t relegate her flair for fashion to the sidelines anymore.
“That’s when I went into partnership with my friend Taimur Shah, who agreed to look after the business side of things and we turned the small venture into a full-scale organizational set-up,” she reveals. Currently, the designer heads a workforce of close to two hundred and operates out of a swanky two-storey studio in Karachi.
While her range of bridals, formals and pret, with its focus on contemporary
silhouettes and the highest quality, has earned her a steady clientele over the years, not just in Karachi, but also internationally, it’s only recently that the brand has captured the public’s imagination. Thanks to Ayesha Omar, Tena Durrani has become a red-carpet staple, with the glamorous actress carrying off the designs to perfection, whether it’s an elegant lace sari or a slinky evening gown.
Tena Durrani (L) describes her piece for the Swarovski exhibition as a contemporary ensemble created using inherently Pakistani techniques that can be worn by a bride anywhere in the world.
“Ayesha has been wearing my clothes for years to weddings and formal events. A lot of stars had previously expressed a desire to wear our clothes on the red carpet but we launched our contemporary line only two months ago. It’s not like I can conjure one outfit for someone out of thin air, there has to be a collection behind it. It’s a pleasure to see anyone wearing my designs, be it Ayesha or a woman walking down the street. It’s a reaffirmation of what I do,” says Tena.
Another stamp of approval has come from Swarovski. Since setting up shop in Pakistan, the international crystal house has regularly partnered with local designers in an effort to promote Pakistani fashion. The latest collaboration will be revealed in Dubai on the 4th of November, with Swarovski holding a “Sparkling Couture” exhibition to mark its 120th anniversary. Tena Durrani is one of the four Pakistani designers selected to show a custom-made creation at the event alongside 36 international couturiers.
“We are one of the handful of design houses in Pakistan that have been affiliatedwith Swarovski for a while now,” says the designer, explaining the reason behind her selection. “We use their crystals on our bridals and when Swarovski officials visited us, they were impressed by our commitment to quality and our desire to use the best resources in the market. They were surprised that we actually want to use Swarovski, considering that many designers say they use their crystals but end up cutting corners in reality.”
The outfit to be exhibited at Sparking Couture is a contemporary take on a bridal, which, says Tena, would work for a bride anywhere in the world. “It’s a two-piece ensemble that has been created using some of our 
favourite techniques of handwork that we have developed over the years. The handwork is balanced out with indigenous fabrics and Swarovski stones in the form of crystals, beads and pearls.”
While the brand might be spreading its wings internationally, it’s presence in Pakistan remains limited to Karachi. At a time when designers are entering the lucrative retail market like never before, setting up stand-alone shops across the country, the Tena Durrani label chooses to limit its presence to a single studio, not even stocking at multi-label boutiques. “It’s a decision that I have made by choice. Designers who are expanding rapidly are mostly those who were already billionaires in their own right.
Red Carpet buzz: Ayesha Omar wore a bottle green backless gown by Tena Durrani to the Lux Style Awards this year.
I started from scratch and I don’t have the capital to expand just yet. My brand has grown very organically. I have my own business model and it’s worked well for me. I don’t follow the way others run their businesses. Plus, we have a strong online presence,” explains the designer.
Having shown at Bridal Couture Week in Lahore for the past two years, Tena is currently gearing up to make her debut at the upcoming Fashion Pakistan Week to be held in Karachi towards the end of November. The designer also reveals her plans to foray into the profitable lawn market soon. “It’s definitely on the cards, but the logistics of it need to be worked out,” says Tena.
Let’s hope the reclusive designer is ready to embrace the spotlight one successful lawn collection can bring your way.
