A Fashionable New Avatar for Films

After two decades and then some in slump, the Pakistani film industry is finally shaking off the stupor and has several exciting releases slated for this year. Mahira Khan is set to deliver a double-whammy with Ho Mann Jahan and Bin Roye, Karachi heartthrob Sikander Rizvi makes his debut against Humaima Malick in Dekh Magar Pyaar Say and Ayesha Omar stars in Karachi se Lahore, all set to come out within this calendar’s term. There is also model-turned-actor Rabia Butt’s big screen debut Hijrat to look forward to.

Behind the seams: Hassan Shehryar Yasin is the creative hand behind Sikander Rizvi and Humaima Malick’s looks in Dekh Magar Pyaar Say whereas Mahira Khan’s long time friend and design whiz Feeha Jamshed has developed her look in Ho Mann Jahan.

The revival of Pakistani cinema is thrilling not just for moviegoers but also for those in fashion. Each of the upcoming films features a designer collaboration on wardrobe and highlights the symbiotic relationship the two industries share.  India’s booming fashion industry is closely linked to Bollywood while the global fashion fraternity also relies on the star power that silver screen celebs bring to their brands. While the revival of local cinema has been slow in coming, the fashion fraternity has been gearing up to play a bigger role in the societal fabric than just churning out collections at fashion weeks.

For the stars on the screen, the involvement of fashion designers means that the look of their character is being put in the hands of professionals. So while audiences had to suffer Reema and Meera in Lollywood’s previous avatar playing college students who dressed up in mini-skirts and taffeta blouses, the new brigade of actors will look far more realistic and aesthetically pleasing.

Speaking to designer Fahad Hussayn, who has provided some of the outfits for Butt in Hijrat, he reveals nothing but excitement and anticipation. “Working on Hijrat was delightful. I’ve done costume design for TV before so I was aware of a lot of the things one must consider, like which materials to use, what colours come out looking best etc. Designing for films is also interesting because you don’t have to worry about using luxe fabrics or the best material because it doesn’t show as much but you do have to play up the drama.”

Cinema and fashion go hand in hand, maintains Hussayn, with fashion providing the decisive edge to many stars, locally and internationally. “Films give you a platform to explore your creativity without having to worry about the consumer base; all my avant garde pieces over the years will now finally have a home. I honestly can’t wait till we start producing super hero movies so I can create really cool costumes for that!”

For many of the designers involved in cinematic ventures, the collaborations have provided not just an outlet to unleash their creativity but have also been a test of their discipline, forcing them to look at issues of production and design on a scale much grander than they have been used to previously.

While cinegoers once had to suffer Reema and Meera (in Lollywood’s previous avatar) playing college students who dressed up in miniskirts and taffeta blouses, the new brigade of actors will look far more realistic and aesthetically pleasing thanks to the involvement of experienced fashion designers.

Couturier Hassan Sheheryar Yasin, who designed the entire look for both Malick and Rizvi in Dekh Magar Pyaar Say, says the experience was rewarding but also in parts quite challenging. “A single scene could be shot over several days which meant that the production team needed several identical copies of one outfit. This was something I learnt on the job and even though it made keeping up frantic at times, the entire experience was enlightening,” he says.

Umair Tabani, Sania Maskatiya’s brother and business partner, also believes that the synergy between the two industries is beneficial for all. Maskatiya designed outfits for Mahira and Armeena Khan in Bin Roye, some of which were customized according to character while some were taken off the rack. “It’s always interesting to work on a film because so many concerns that plague a runway collection completely vanish and are replaced by a new set of issues. We were shooting in HD so the image was crystal clear and very crisp with no margin for error. Colours and silhouettes would come out looking different so what we did was that we’d give the team several options with slight differences and they could pick what worked best,” explains Tabani.

The revival of cinema also provides greater exposure to brands involved, locally and internationally. Bollywood is replete with examples of up and coming designers and stylists cultivating an international audience through their cinematic involvements. New names like Nikhil Thampi and Niskha Lulla have found an immediate following because of their status as go-to designers for the red carpet while stylist turned entrepreneur Pernia Qureshi achieved instant fame for dressing Sonam Kapoor in Aisha. Mahira Khan has not only put reclusive designer Feeha Jamshed’s brand on the map by wearing it during film promotions but has also garnered praise for her strong aesthetic style. It would be safe to conclude then that fashion and films are co-dependent, with the success of each industry directly related to the survival of the other.