Instep Today

PSFW Day Three: Wild things, make our hearts sing

Instep Today
By Aamna Haider Isani
Tue, 04, 19

It was a day that began with Zaha’s debut at the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week, bringing us a newfound love for the big and boisterous ‘80s, before getting physical with athleisure and gym-wear.

Day three marked the end of the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2019 and it ended with a big bang. High street brand Zaha by Khadijah opened with its runway debut on this platform, the day proceeded with some energizing gym-wear from Nomi Ansari’s collaboration with Tuhura, Republic by Omar Farooq once again impressed with a sharp menswear collection and as grand finale, HSY paid an emotional tribute to his mother.

Since one has complained, for years, about fashion week time delays (that have often taken shows past midnight) it’s only fair to acknowledge that this time along, there was much more discipline, with days ending at a relatively early time. The overall lineup was also very desirable, with not a single collection (especially in the evening shows) feeling out of place.

Over to the shows…

Zaha by Khadijah Shah

Collection: Wild Thing

Fashion forward, trend setting and ready-to-be-wearable, this was one of the strongest collections at fashion week. Zaha’s runway debut really did go wild with love for the ‘80s, which meant big hair, loose and yet discotheque sexy silhouettes and, to bring the jungle cat out in a woman, animal print galore. A diverse range of silhouettes kept things from getting predictable and one saw all kinds of jungle beasts on hybrid saris, dhoti shalwars, palazzos, dresses with saucy side slits and much more. ‘Welcome to the jungle,’ it seemed to say to the adventurer in all of us…

Nomi Ansari X Tuhura

Nomi Ansari’s gym wear, designed in collaboration with local sportswear brand Tuhura Athletics, just went to prove that the designer is worth much more than the ostentatious, elaborate and voluminous bridals that he designs. This collection was in fact the antithesis of what he’s popularly known for and yet sticking to his love for colour, it carried his trademark signature just as strongly. Styles in marbling and animal print, accents of florescent colour contrasts and of course, the black, navy and white staples were put together on fits and forms that make up gym wear. Vital to this collection was the fact that with imported gym wear in Pakistan being almost unaffordable, this was a desirable and just as well constructed alternative that will be affordable and available online any day now. Also, shown to potential international TEXPO buyers, it had export possibilities too. A win, win for sure.

Republic by Omar Farooq

Collection: Metaphor

Omar Farooq is one of the few designers in the country who designs fashion forward menswear that is just as practical and wearable too. Omar’s collections always have a poignant thought and purpose, this time which was ‘metaphor’, the symbolism of what one wears as an extension of one’s self. And so it built on the basics with a brush of neon accents, a bit of plastic, a hint of deconstruction and if one may, a suggestion of androgyny. There were various expressions that one could interpret and introspect upon, personally. As always, Omar’s construction and aesthetic balance was impeccable.

HSY

Collection: Rani

An HSY finale is always grand and this time it was extra special for being emotionally charged too. Hassan Sheheryar Yasin, celebrating 25 years in fashion, has been revoking landmark memories of his career and this collection was an ode to his mother, who has been a driving force in his life. An all red collection, as a reference to his favourite colour and the first shade he saw after he almost lost his vision in a car accident, this was all about the Rani in his life.

– Photography by Faisal Farooqui

What the afternoon shows had in store

Afternoon shows on Day 3 included mostly textile brands Khas, Sanoor, Almirah and So Kamal. Unlike the afternoon shows on Day 2 – which were relatively more fashionable – the shows on Day 3 were disappointing on several accounts, starting from the fact that they started unnecessarily late. Secondly, one expects a certain level of style and cohesion in all fashion week showcases, which was sadly lacking in the afternoon.

Neither Khas, Sanoor, Almirah or So Kamal brought out anything innovative. Some of it looked like off-the-rack garments at best. Khas, Sanoor and Almirah in particular were majorly lacking in their thematic concepts. So Kamal, on the other hand, still tried experimenting with a youthful and free spirited display by having a palette of brighter tones, florescent accents and deeper hues.

With an overall lackluster approach to what could have been a strong display of innovation, like some of the previous day’s collections, the concept of afternoon shows remained unfortunately underwhelming. – Shahjehan Saleem