Saadia Mirza is somewhat of an enigma. She has worked quietly, meticulously, away from the media hoopla for years, eschewing exposure in favour of a low-key approach.
Runway return: Saadia Mirza with her showstopper, anchor/producer Sana Bucha, dressed in
a peplum bridal outfit from her latest collection.
Designer Saadia Mirza returns to the limelight after a hiatus of almost five years. Instep catches up with the couturier.
Saadia Mirza is somewhat of an enigma. She has worked quietly, meticulously, away from the media hoopla for years, eschewing exposure in favour of a low-key approach. She has consistently won acclaim since the beginning of her career in the late 1990s, for her craft and vision and has worked closely with international retailers such as Harvey Nichols, which in itself is testament to the quality of her garments. Known for her media shy persona, Mirza remained conspicuously away from fashion weeks and digital platforms since her last presentation in 2012, only to resurface this year. Showcasing Roses in Rain at the recently concluded Bridal Couture Week in Karachi, she returned to the runway with her signature, silhouette based aesthetic and followed it up with Boadicea, The Sacred Feminine Series collection.
Instep contacted the reclusive couturier for a tete-a-tete about her runway return, the self-promotional role of social media and future plans.
Mirza might have been visibly missing from the fashion circuit but it was business as usual for her during these interim years. “The hiatus was actually more from the media; the business was running through-out. I have been doing big weddings here, in the U.K., India and the Middle East, especially Qatar. My concentration shifted from the local market to exports. The hiatus was basically personal; it taught me more than anything else. When I started off with my business it got lots of media attention, including getting nominated in the Best Couture category at the Lux Style Awards but I think I might have been a little ahead of the curve at that time,” she elaborates.
Model Nooray Bhatti sashays down the BCW ramp in a fringed, steel grey and pink number from Mirza’s Roses in the Rain.
Talking about her fashion week appearance, Mirza states that she was thrilled by the response to her collection at BCW. “I think it was a very warm reception back into the fold. I know it’s been a long break since I was a regular at fashion weeks but I intend to remedy that now. BCW was a great relaunching platform. I was flooded by enquiries from prospective buyers after the show. Next is PFDC hopefully, with their bridal couture week later in the year,” Mirza divulges.
Mirza returned to Pakistan after graduating from London School of Fashion and started her label when the industry wasn’t as structured or organised as it is now. She has seen the fraternity evolve from a few designers offering limited options for pret-a-porter to a recent boom in the market, while she continues to stick to her guns and work according to her own agenda.
“When I started I came in with a very aggressive strategy and received criticism from some ends as campaigns and proper marketing was amiss in fashion then. The landscape has changed now, it’s a different ball game altogether. The industry is all about brand building. The unfortunate part is that in all the current models of brand building the product is lost and real fashion is very rare,” she opines.
The couturier has long enjoyed an established reputation in the international market, having worked with some of the biggest retailers and cultivating a loyal customer base that includes royalty from the Middle East. She feels that Pakistan is headed in the right direction but needs to harness its talents more astutely. “After working with Harvey Nichols and other big stores I think fashion in our country has lots of potential but it needs to be channelled better to improve the industry. We tend to focus on the glamorous aspect of things but we need to improve our product quality and finish before we can enter the big leagues. When you work on an international platform it gives you exposure and immeasurable experience. The current wedding I‘m doing in Qatar, I am working along world renowned couturiers and while its intimidating, I’m thrilled to have the opportunity and am sure will learn a lot from it.”
For a public figure like her with an aversion to media, the recent rise of digital exposure must put Mirza in an odd spot. How does she intend on tackling the technological beast? “Social media has taken over everything, there’s no ignoring or avoiding it. We’re working on a proper plan that has to be put in action to aid the brand in competing and catching-up to the current standard. A strong digital presence is very important and most definitely needed now. As for the IT girls and adopting a set of social influencers, I have always believed in my creativity and I think that alone will have the IT girls adopt me!” she states cheekily.
Having stepped back from the scene for so long, Mirza has no intention of returning to her self-imposed exile. The couturier has big plans for the future, with stores all over Pakistan and internationally on the cards and an emphasis on pret. “That’s the plan though, let’s see! Currently I’m taking one step at a time back into the fashion realm,” says Mirza.
