Their love for water, which was already knee-deep, had long evaporated into thin air....
TRAVELOGUE
Having had enough of the sea and the inevitable seasickness, some of my friends in our excursion group became hysterical in opposing any ocean-bound outings. They advocated the “Look East” policy. Even a faint hint of wetness in any excursion plan had started giving them a Waterloo feeling. Their love for water, which was already knee-deep, had long evaporated into thin air.
To keep the group, and more importantly the friendship, intact, the other members sacrificed their obsession with marina and succumbed to the demands of exploring some arid zones. Some friends convinced others that the real pleasure of an expedition lurks somewhere in the mountains. So the group decided to go vertical. As if travelling horizontally on the surface offered no bravados.
The problem here was that Nature has bestowed nothing like The Himalayas or Karakoram upon Karachiites like it has blessed the residents of the capital city with Murree or Margalla Hills. Likewise, the dwellers of D. G. Khan or other nearby areas have Fort Munro to spend their weekends at several thousand feet above the sea level.
The obvious destination to have fun over the mountains was the 5,688 feet high Gorakh Hill – the third highest mountain in the Kirthar Range after Barugh Hills (7056 feet) and Kuttay Ji Qabar or Dog’s Grave (6880 feet). In winters, these hills receive occasional snowfall as the temperature drops to sub-zero level. Perhaps that is the reason why many people have given Gorakh Hill the title of Murree of Sindh province.
The group got excited about ascending to such heights, albeit in a vehicle. Some members were mentally brushing shoulders with Sir Edmund Hilary.
The Kirthar mountain range which perhaps initiates from the Charna Island in the coastal waters of Sindh and Balochistan, runs along the border of the two provinces. The enchanting hill station at Gorakh is a one-of-its-kind summer resort that sits atop one of the most rugged mountains and is difficult to reach without a 4x4 vehicle.
Located on the edge of Dadu district, the place is about 450 kilometers away from Karachi. The shorter and easier route for Karachiites would be to take Indus Highway from Jamshoro, passing by Sann, Amri, Sehwan and Bubak - a small village having a history of over 2000 years and archaeological value, bordering Pakistan’s rather Asia’s largest Manchar Lake. This region was devastated by the recent floods with Manchar swelling beyond all thinkable boundaries.
Our group travelled in an air-conditioned van up to Juhi, a small town which can be considered as the launching pad to catapult travelers in rented Suzuki Potohar jeeps fitted with engines of much bigger vehicles. This is a back breaking journey. You get stuffed in these 4x4s only to feel like 4 upon 4. The drivers are experts and take you at breakneck speed. During this uphill ride, you keep convincing yourself that your driver should only be a Learners’ license holder. Without stopovers and alighting from the vehicle every now and then, it is impossible to maintain your erect posture upon reaching Gorakh. The heights and the dilapidated state of the approach roads don’t give you much of a giddy feeling but the rough ride in these cramped 4x4s giving you a taste of army assault in an Armored Personnel Carrier, makes the climb to Gorakh Hills truly dizzy.
It was only during this ride when a group member, compared it with the boat ride and remarked, ‘We are caught between the dev-hill and the deep blue sea.’ Another member, exhausted by the bumpy ride, said, ‘Yar ye kiya Gorakh dhanda hae?’
Before reaching Gorakh, you pass by the shanty town of Wahi Pandi. After that, it is mostly alpine wilderness. We saw herds of donkeys being used as beasts of burden to transport commodities up the hill. Seeing them in large numbers reassured us that this specie in Gorakh has not yet seen the abattoir.
Upon reaching the plateau of Gorakh Hill and getting off the dreaded vehicle, you immediately react in two ways. First, you pandiculate and blurt out the word ‘Ha’ as a sigh of relief. Second, almost in the same breath and as you look around, you exclaim ‘Aha’. This is your instantaneous appreciation of the pristine beauty of Gorakh.
The environment of Gorakh is pure, clean and serene. Every hour spent at Gorakh Hill offers you a distinct sensation. The best morning and the best sunrise that I have experienced so far were here. At sunrise and sunset, the entire surroundings emit a golden glow. At night, the star-studded sky drops several fathoms lower and leaves you awestruck. Stargazing in the chilly atmosphere of Gorakh Hill is a mesmerizing and unforgettable experience.
To keep Gorakh Hill Resort visitor-friendly, the Sindh government and local authorities will have to meet many tough challenges. Maintenance of roads to make the journey comfortable is of foremost importance. Come what may, the dire need for comfortable - not to be confused with luxurious - means of transportation must be fulfilled if Gorakh really has to become a preferred tourist resort. Provision of water and other utilities, construction of more rest-houses and eateries are some other needs. I must admit that the government has not completely neglected Gorakh Hill. Work in progress can be seen at places. One must also realize that providing amenities at such height is a real uphill task. We saw pipes running all along the road to pump water from God knows where. Perhaps, solutions to such developmental problems lie in public-private partnerships.
The natural beauty of Gorakh is so alluring that despite the ordeal of the 4x4 safari you look back at the resort while leaving and promise that you will come again.
