Sindh has a rich heritage of traditional handicraft that has evolved over the course of centuries.....
Exhibition!
Sindh has a rich heritage of traditional handicraft that has evolved over the course of centuries. It has a reputation for ‘ajrak’, pottery, leatherwork, carpets, textiles, and silk cloths which, in design and finish, are matchless. Other chief articles produced in the province are blankets, coarse cotton cloth (soosi), camel fittings, metalwork, lacquered work, enamel, gold and silver embroidery to name a few. While this province is a cultural treasure for the country, unfortunately, it is grappled by political and economical issues that hinder it from further progression. However, the great thing about art is that it not only entertains, but also can be a source of a pertinent change.
One such name associated with the elevation of Sindhi art culture is of fashion designer, Zein Ahmed, whose work has been featured on multiple international platforms such as ‘The Opera Magazine’, ‘The New York Times’, ‘Veranda’, and ‘Vogue’ among others. Ahmed’s journey with ethical design began nearly three decades ago in Lahore and marked the beginning of her love for handloom textiles. In 1998, Zein shifted to New York where she became part of the #SlowFashion movement, setting up her own clothing label: ‘Guru’. The movement advocates for ethical and environment friendly clothing. It’s about having fewer but high-quality garments that are made with the best fabric, sewn with care in styles and designs that are lasting, instead of catering to the latest temporary fad. “I define ethical production as products made with fair wages, while using environmentally friendly business choices. Slowing down this mass consumerism culture and producing only quality products that are not based on fleeting trends can really make a difference.”
In the continuation of her deep down interest in Sindh’s heritage, the designer has recently exhibited her collection, ‘Truest Form’ at Alliance Francaise de Karachi in collaboration with CIRCLE, a social enterprise for women, as a part of the ‘Making Life Matter’ initiative which is a yearlong passion project, inspired by the culture and artistry of Sukkur. Zein decided to embark on this journey of ‘making the invisible hands, visible’ and highlighting the sheer amount of talent and skill that is hidden away in Sukkur. “I was inspired to start this as a pilot project to determine how to best assist the female home-based workers (FHBW) residing in Sukkur, who I had met twice over two trips there. After meeting with several groups of artisans and listening to the issues and problems they face there, I had to come up with solutions for them. Primarily, I wanted to give them income opportunities. Also, the artisans there in comparison to artisans from other regions of Pakistan face many more issues than artisans in Punjab, but about the same issues as artisans of Balochistan. I think it would be fair to say that artisans from Sukkur face much harsher living conditions and live in extreme poverty, the kind I had not seen in Punjab,” she shares.
In the exhibition, the lifestyle range of linen tunics and dresses seem like a reminiscent of traditional and classical silhouettes with a modern twist, crafted with urban flair, and based on social as well as environmentally conscious production modes. “The textiles, prints, ‘taankas’ and designs are all local to Sukkur. All the textiles were made to order. The ajraks were made by Pakistan’s master ajrak maker, the block prints were made in Bhit Shah and the hand-loomed textiles were woven in Liari. The artisans were given a free hand in the designs and colours they wanted to use. The stitching for all the crafted clothing was also done locally in Sukkur to optimise their earning capacity.”
The core concept of the collection is focused primarily on ethical production and recognition for the artisans and their exclusive work. “Good design is not about the surface of a garment alone. It is about a purity of practice from the ground up. Design must resonate all stages of production and artisanal making. I am thrilled to work with Sukkur artisans and spotlight their work,” concludes Zein.
