Instep Today

FPWF’19: Day One takes fashion from dawn to dusk

By Aamna Haider Isani
Fri, 10, 19

FPWF’19: Between Alkaram Studio, Boheme, Gogi by Hassan Riaz, Yasmin Zaman and Ayesha Farooq (AFH) one can’t say the fashion was all great but at least it wasn’t coming out at the painful pace most bridal collections almost guarantee

A very hot and balmy Karachi evening welcomed fashion folks to Fashion Pakistan Week Winter/Festive 19; the outdoor venue – usually picturesque under swaying palm trees and a hospitable cool sea breeze – was unwelcome at its best. Those who braved the mercury turned up in their lightest gear, equipped with bottles of water and makeshift fans. The fashion, featuring five brands of different variations, was quick and relatively easier on the system.

Between Alkaram Studio, Boheme, Gogi by Hassan Riaz, Yasmin Zaman and Ayesha Farooq (AFH) one can’t say the fashion was all great but at least it wasn’t coming out at the painful pace most bridal collections almost guarantee.


La Vie En Rose

The day began with an extended show by textile giant Alkaram with Alkaram Studio, a line which has effectively veered into fashion under the supervision of Ather Hafeez. While one can’t imagine the mass populace of Pakistan wearing ball gowns, the rest of the collection had a strong spirit of adventure, and worked quite well in giving festive solutions to people from all walks of life.

Affordable fashion is the buzzword these days and Alkaram’s strength would be affordability and accessibility; those dusky pink cotton skirts, bejeweled jackets and pantsuits as well as cotton ghararas, shararas … the sheer range of the collection targeted all types of buyers and would work well throughout the year barring a dramatic bow here and there.

It may take a couple more showcases for Alkaram to establish a strong signature of its own – Ather Hafeez was previously known for his love for ethnicity and there was little of that unfortunately – but it’s a great path for a textile brand to be on. The show featured several adorable children as well as television stars including Muneeb Butt, child artist Sami Khan (from Suno Chanda) and of course, the extremely popular Ayeza Khan who is making waves for her character Mehwish in drama serial Mere Paas Tum Ho.



Boheme is always a good showcase that features ethnic elements from Pakistan’s rich heritage. This collection celebrated the tradition of Sindhi gajj embroidery, incorporated in equally traditional silhouettes. The proud display of craft definitely had a wow factor but barring the tubular shirt that offered a relatively new silhouette to winter trends, one felt there was too much literal translation from craft to collection. It would have been refreshing to see the gajj embroidery incorporated in a couple more wearable, contemporary silhouettes rather than just the predominantly rustic shapes that were displayed. That said this was definitely one of the stronger collections of the day.

Gogi by Hassan Riaz

Lost in my French Garden

An overwhelming collection that brought the designer’s every thought to the runway, Hassan Riaz’s collection was maximalist at best and a mess at worst. There were thoughts that could have been streamlined to giving visual relief – the sheer overall, the lime green and hot pink jacket and the white menswear suit – but the designer went overboard with the accessories. The plastic glasses, lace gloves, walking sticks and cigarettes, hats and head bands all became too much of a distraction, especially combined with the unedited display of embellishment and fabric treatment. One could have found a piece or two worth taking home but as a collection, Hassan Riaz’s French Garden needed a lot of pruning.

Yasmin Zaman


Yasmin Zaman is one of those understated and media shy designers that has created a well-earned space for herself on the runway. By no means cutting edge, her designs are nevertheless tasteful and elegant, which is more than what one can say for a lot of designers these days. This particular collection was winter-oriented in its use of thick silks and velvet and incorporated the richest of reds and olives to put out her vision.

It was a well thought out collection and will undoubtedly fare well from runway to retail. What one appreciated even more was Yasmin’s collaboration with Soma Shoes and Haya Lutfullah, an edgy young jewellery designer who is now a permanent part of Yasmin’s showcases. The attention to detail definitely elevated the standard and impact of her showcase.

Ayesha Farooq

Mahnoor – Light of the Moon

A collection named after moonlight, one saw Mahnoor unravel more like the journey from dawn to dusk. Cool shades of grey rolled out and gradually turned to yellow and a sunset orange. Ayesha’s fashion ethos is what one refers to as ‘society chic’ and sure enough, these were high-end clothes aimed at women with good taste. Bejewelled jumpsuits, capes and kaftans, harem pants and predominantly well-fused silhouettes that could work anywhere in the world.

With this collection, Day One of FPWF’19 ended on a high note.

– Photography by Faisal Farooqui @ Dragonfly