The many delights of Kasur

January 27, 2019

Less than an hour away from Lahore, the town is a food lovers’ paradise, but it doesn’t disappoint the more culturally inclined tourist either

The many delights of Kasur

It all started with an argument between us -- a group of old friends -- about where to go for fried fish. Every year, when the winter season is at its peak, we have such discussions. The occasion could be anything -- the need to have a meeting on an issue, a new appointment, a promotion, purchase of a new house or a car or any other good news -- we celebrate it by eating tonnes of fried fish.

There are justifications galore -- it offers the vitamins you desperately need, has low cholesterol and fat content, is good for cardiovascular system and helps you keep warm in the chilly weather. To avail all these ‘health benefits’ (and with no other Epicurean purpose in mind), we travel places across the city and beyond to try out different varieties of rahu, malli, baam and sanghara.

It was earlier this month that we decided to go to Kasur to have fried fish at the popular Javed Fish Corner, located in the old city.

Other attractions were Kasuri falooda, andrassay, sohan halwa and other sweets. Actually, every time we gather to have a fish party, we eat to our hearts’ content and there is no space left for dessert.

Soon this foodies’ visit was converted into a day trip and new activities were added to the itinerary, food being just one component of the package.

Our journey started around 11am and we reached a spot near Kamahan village on Ferozepur Road in three different cars. It was easy to get there through the Lahore Ring Road since the Kasur exit is marked clearly on the signboards. The road to Kasur is in excellent condition which meant the journey to the destination took only 50 minutes, despite that being rush hour.

As we reached Kasur around noon, the signboards led us to the shrine of Sufi Saint Baba Bulleh Shah, which was right next to the old city. There was a huge parking lot where we parked our cars against a modest parking fee of Rs30 per car. We were greeted by an attendant who told us, "You have come too early. Javed does not start serving fish before 2pm." Embarrassed, we told him we had plans to explore the Walled City of Kasur and pray at the shrine of Baba Bulleh Shah before heading to the fish corner.

At the shrine, we had the good fortune to listen to the sufi saint’s Punjabi poetry being recited by qawwals at a spacious pavilion. The walls had his verses painted on them. The huge compound of the shrine juxtaposed against a congested and untidy bazaar offers relief to those who reach here after wading through crowds and motorcycles parked wrongly on both sides.

At 2pm, we were at the crowded Javed Fish Corner. It took an hour to get our order served. There was consensus on the excellent taste of rahu, cooked in mustard oil and generously sprinkled with red pepper flakes and dried coriander, and served with mint chutni and yogurt. A good five minutes were spent allaying the fears of one friend about contracting a skin condition for consuming a dairy product immediately after eating fish. Priced at Rs760 per kg, it was great value for money. There are many joints where fried fish is on sale at Rs550-600 per kg but Javed’s is the real deal.

Driver Hotel, founded in 1947 and located near the old bazaar, is equally crowded all the time because it has an extended menu, offering options other than fish.

Our next stop was Sheikh Ghulam Mohayuddin Sweet Shop located quite close to Javed’s. Here we purchased andrassay, a unique Kasuri sweet. There were different varieties, including those made of gurr, khoya and sugar. We also bought Kasuri falooda which was packed in earthen pots (kujjay), Kasuri methi and some traditional pottery.

Kasuri chappals made of leather are another specialty but we postponed the idea of buying these till our next visit -- owing to both lack of time and money.

While in Kasur, One can visit the Kasur Museum that displays the history, culture and artifacts, the shrine of sufi saint Hazrat Baba Shah Kamal Chishti built on a hill, Ganda Singh border for the daily flag-lowering ceremony and the bank of Sutlej river that enters here from India.

Fishing is a popular sport in Sutlej during certain months of the year. Ganda Singh is a village on the Pakistani side named after a Sikh, and Husainia a village on the Indian side named after a Muslim. The border here is closed and there is no movement between the two countries. But to visit all these places in one day, one has to manage time well.

Kasur has a long history. As legend has it, it was named after Kassu -- son of Ram Chandar, who established the city around the same time when his brother established Lahore. It is also the city of legendary singers Noor Jehan, Ustad Bade Ghulam Ali Khan, Ustad Barkat Ali Khan and Ustad Amanat Ali Khan.

Unfortunately though, the city has remained in the news lately for the wrong reasons -- as a hub of child sexual abuse incidents. One can see notices placed across the city advising people to protect their children against predators and to report to the police if they see any suspicious person around.

You can take ordinary buses from Badami Bagh or air-conditioned ones from Data Darbar to reach the heart of Kasur and vice versa. We saw people travelling on cars, motorbikes and public transport which is readily available. Public transport service from Kasur to Ganda Singh and back is available too.

So why wait; just take your pick and leave for Kasur to spend an eventful day before it gets too hot.

The many delights of Kasur