atar Foundation operates differently from many other charitable organisations in Gulf countries such as the United Arab Emirates and the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. From a Pakistani perspective, Doha stands out as one of the more open cities in the region, second perhaps only to Muscat.

This openness is reflected in the way Qatar Foundation and Doha engage with visitors. Ahsan Malik, a well-known feature writer and educationist, and I were invited to attend an event organised by Qatar Foundation aimed at promoting education in Pakistan.

The Qatar Airways flight from Islamabad to Doha had mostly Pakistani labourers. The contrast in treatment of passengers between Islamabad International Airport and Doha International Airport was stark. In Islamabad, even getting past the first checkpoint on the way to boarding the plane was a time-consuming process. In Doha, disembarking and exiting the airport was a smooth process. Pakistani travellers do not often experience this level of ease at airports in the UAE or Saudi Arabia. Malik had a few items in his bag intended for a Pakistani acquaintance working in Doha; the individual was able to collect them from the airport lounge without any difficulty.

Outside the airport, the cityscape was neatly maintained, with patches of greenery lining the roads. The hotel check-in was uneventful. Many staff members spoke or understood Urdu, making communication easy.

Unlike some other Gulf capitals, Doha’s downtown area is not dominated by excessively high or sprawling shopping centres. The built environment feels more balanced.

Some SUVs in the city bore the phrase “Tamim-ul Arab”, an expression of loyalty to Qatar’s ruler, Tamim bin Hamad Al Thani. The slogan, which translates to “Lion of the Arabs”, gained traction between 2017 and 2021, during the diplomatic blockade imposed by several neighbouring states.

Though small in size, Qatar has consistently resisted pressure from its more powerful neighbours. In the 1960s, when efforts were under way to merge nine Gulf states into a federation, the United Arab Emirates, Qatar asserted its sovereignty and opted for independence. Of the nine, only Bahrain joined Qatar in declining the union. The rest became part of the UAE, now known more for its towering skyscrapers and luxury coastlines than for political autonomy. Soon, even the UAE’s skyline may be overshadowed by Saudi Arabia’s plans for the 1-km Jeddah Tower and the 2-km Riyadh Tower.

At the education-focused event hosted by Qatar Foundation, it was disappointing to hear the same project-driven rhetoric familiar to anyone who has attended similar gatherings in Islamabad. The oft-cited figure of 20 million out-of-school children in Pakistan was repeated, along with the usual calls for digital interventions to address the issue.

Once again, donor representatives were positioned as agents of change, though the substance of their proposals offered little that would be new or surprising to a Pakistani audience.

At night, we were taken to Souq Waqif, a vibrant, traditional market in the heart of Doha that showcases Qatari culture through a maze of shops selling spices, textiles and handicrafts. Built on an ancient trading site, it retains an authentic Arabian atmosphere. We were spoilt for choice between sampling local dishes at the many restaurants or visiting the Falcon Souq for a glimpse into Qatar’s falconry heritage.

Doha’s malls… are more than retail spaces, they’re modern palaces where Qatar’s flair for grandeur shines.

Translating to “standing market” in Arabic, Souq Waqif is among the most iconic destinations in Qatar, blending cultural heritage with modern tourism. Kamran Rehmat, former editor of The News International and Dateline Islamabad, now based in Doha, offered some context: “Originally a trading hub where Bedouins and locals bartered goods, it was revitalised in the early 2000s to preserve its traditional Qatari architecture and charm while catering to contemporary visitors. Souq Waqif is a bustling open-air market known for its labyrinthine alleys, mud-rendered shops and authentic Middle Eastern ambience. It serves as a cultural landmark, offering a glimpse into Qatar’s past while functioning as a lively social and commercial hub.”

Rehmat added: “Souq Waqif attracts a diverse mix of locals, expatriates and international tourists. It’s a favourite among those drawn by its cultural authenticity, shopping and dining experiences, particularly during major events like the FIFA World Cup 2022 and international festivals.”

The Museum of Islamic Art is another notable destination. Designed by renowned architect IM Pei, it stands as an architectural landmark on Doha’s Corniche. The museum houses one of the world’s most significant collections of Islamic artefacts, spanning 1,400 years. Highlights include intricately illuminated manuscripts, ceramics and textiles. Its waterfront setting also provides striking views of Doha’s skyline.

Katara Cultural Village serves as a hub for the arts and cultural dialogue. Celebrating both Qatari heritage and international artistic exchange, the site includes striking landmarks such as the Katara Mosque, decorated with elaborate Persian-style tiles, and an open-air amphitheatre that hosts live performances. The area is also home to galleries and structures that reflect traditional Qatari architecture, rooted in Bedouin heritage.

The Pearl-Qatar, a man-made island, nods to the country’s pearl-diving past, once central to its economy. Visitors can walk along the Porto Arabia marina, lined with high-end cafés and boutiques, or explore Qanat Quartier, an area modelled after Venetian canals, for a blend of historical reference and contemporary luxury.

The National Museum of Qatar, designed by architect Jean Nouvel, is inspired by the desert rose and tells the story of the nation from its Bedouin roots to its modern, oil-driven transformation. With interactive exhibits covering pearl diving, tribal traditions and rapid urban development, the museum serves as a significant cultural landmark.

Al Zubarah Archaeological Site, a UNESCO World Heritage location, offers a window into Qatar’s pre-oil era. Located about an hour from Doha, this 18th-Century coastal settlement features a well-preserved fort and the remains of a once-flourishing pearl trading town, reflecting the region’s maritime heritage.

No overview of Doha would be complete without mentioning its expansive retail scene. The city’s shopping malls are not only commercial centres but also reflections of architectural ambition and cultural identity.

Mall of Qatar in Al Rayyan features over 500 stores ranging from international luxury brands to local boutiques. Its Oasis atrium, with a 360-degree performance stage and lush interior landscaping, offers an immersive experience. Villaggio Mall, styled after Venetian canals, includes gondola rides and a ceiling painted to resemble a European sky, creating a theme park-like environment. Doha Festival City, among the largest, combines high-end fashion outlets with family attractions, including an indoor amusement park.

These malls exemplify Doha’s modern vision. They are spaces where retail, entertainment and design converge in environments that speak to both local aspirations and global trends.

The writer teaches development support communication at International Islamic University Islamabad. He tweets @HassanShehzadZ