istorical graffiti and wilful acts of heritage vandalism are not the same. While such marks and engravings may seem to distort the surfaces and architectural details of historic sites, their intentions and meanings differ greatly. Many of these inscriptions originate from individuals and communities who sought to highlight, assert or challenge authority.

These marks offer valuable material for the study of social and cultural expression. They capture how people register their thoughts and emotions, such as historical graffiti in the form of Persian poetry found alongside the frescoes of mosques across South Asia. These writings often reflect the experiences of travellers and pilgrims, preserving their encounters with the space.

The relevance of such acts comes to mind during a visit to Rohtas Fort, where many prominent areas have been defaced with oil paint spray, often bearing the names of individuals. However, Rohtas Fort has long housed a large village, with residents who have lived there for generations. Their inscriptions reflect attempts to assert belonging, ownership and their everyday struggles. This practice at Rohtas Fort cannot simply be dismissed as unsanctioned public art; rather, it often carries social, political or cultural messages.

Construction of Rohtas Fort began around 1541 CE, following the conquest of Rohtasgarh in Bihar. The name itself symbolised Sher Shah Suri’s expanding dominance from the east to the north-west of the subcontinent. The fort’s primary purpose was administrative and military. Suri is said to have invested heavily in its construction. At one point, shortages of labour and materials were so severe that he was reportedly paying the price of gold for each stone used.

Built along the banks of the Kahaan River, the fort was designed to defend against local tribal attacks on Suri’s forces. Its elevated location made it nearly inaccessible and earned it repeated mention in Mughal chronicles, European travellers’ accounts and later historical writings.

Historians such as Irfan Habib have analysed Rohtas Fort not only as a symbol of territorial control but also as a site critical to securing trade routes and enabling Suri’s economic reforms. Historian R Nath views it as a key element of Suri’s military strategy to consolidate his rule over a region stretching into Afghanistan. Professor Catherine B Asher highlights the fort’s proximity to a major transit point as a deliberate move to counter Mughal ambitions and safeguard Suri’s reign.

Together, these perspectives frame Rohtas Fort as a strategic, architectural, political and military landmark of the Suri period. As an engineering feat, it continues to serve as a rich site for exploring the history of 16th-Century South Asia.

Historians regard Rohtas Fort as a strategic, architectural and political landmark of the Suri period – a fusion of diverse architectural traditions and one of the finest embodiments of Sher Shah Suri’s military strategy. Beyond its imposing structure, the fort is steeped in rich oral traditions that continue to thrive in the local community. Many residents of Rohtas village now work as tour guides, sharing stories and anecdotes passed down through generations, shaped by their own interpretations and experiences.

Forts help ground abstract historical narratives in physical space, providing a tangible and often immersive connection to the past.

The colonial gaze, however, often misrepresented the fort’s history. For instance, what is commonly known today as the Sohail Gate is, according to local tradition, actually the Zuhal Gate – named after the planet Zuhal (Saturn), which appeared in the sky during its construction.

Travel writer Salman Rashid has expressed a deep admiration for Rohtas Fort, particularly in his book Jhelum: The City of Vitasta and his more recent work From Landi Kotal to Wagah. Though not strictly historical texts, his writings go beyond the confines of conventional travel literature in Pakistan. They weave together folklore, oral histories, colonial historiography, geography, personal adventure and photography.

The fort also houses a small museum, recently re-established and open to the public, containing a modest but important collection of artefacts. For decades, an iron dustbin outside the museum was the only one in the entire fort. Eventually, corrosion rendered it useless. Similarly, the public toilets within the fort remain insufficient for the volume of visitors and fall short of basic hygiene standards. These small details reveal a broad picture of inadequate maintenance and long-standing neglect by the relevant authorities.

Rohtas Fort is often referred to as an example of Suri architecture – a style characterised by grandeur and impregnability. Built on terrain that naturally enhances its defences, the fort’s massive bastions and towering walls were designed to intimidate invaders. Yet despite Sher Shah Suri’s reputation as a brilliant strategist, his dynasty failed to secure lasting rule. In the end, the Mughals returned to power.

Colonial rule redrew maps and introduced new administrative divisions. Rohtas, once a thriving city with present-day Jhelum as its tehsil, quickly lost prominence after the British takeover. Jhelum was established as a new cantonment, while Rohtas Fort entered a prolonged period of neglect.

During the British colonial period, the fort fell into a state of disuse – its former prominence under the Mughals, Suris and Ranjit Singh’s empire gradually faded. As colonial strategies evolved and new centres of power emerged, Rohtas Fort was repurposed – used at times for storage or as a stopover for British officials. Eventually, it was abandoned altogether. The colonial gaze left its imprint in the form of travelogues and documentation, but little was done to preserve or restore the fort’s legacy.

Historically, forts have served as sites of control, centres of power and tools for consolidating empires. They offer rich insights into the social structures, military strategies and political ambitions of past societies. Forts help ground abstract historical narratives in physical space, providing a tangible and often immersive connection to the past.

Rohtas Fort continues to evoke historical curiosity and its weathered walls remain eloquent witnesses to centuries of change, conflict and power.

The writer is a historian, travel writer and translator. He researches on intellectual history, Persianate world connections and early Indian cinema