Touring Tokyo

January 26, 2025

A month in Japan can teach one much about discipline and devotion

Touring Tokyo


L

ike most of my countrymen, I grew up wondering about the Japanese people who, so fastidiously, manufactured bullet trains, flawless motor vehicles, robust electrical appliances, thrilling video games and durable quartz watches. They had to be devoted not just to their employers but also to their beliefs and their country, I thought. Leading highly disciplined and orderly lives, the Japanese are a nation apart, as my wife and I discovered during our month-long holiday in Tokyo and its adjoining cities.

After a rather long wait at Narita Airport’s immigration section, we walked to the carousels to collect our luggage. We were somehow the last ones, and the airport staff were looking for us. On seeing us, a lady appeared, bowed courteously, checked our luggage tags and handed us our suitcases while offering any assistance we might need. That was the first of a series of polite gestures that we encountered during our stay.

We were headed towards densely populated Minato City, in the heart of Tokyo, where most of the embassies are located. Due to the immensely costly real estate, almost 70 percent of Tokyoites live in high-rise apartment complexes. The wealthiest 30 percent or so reside in independent houses, typically no larger than five marlas. As can be imagined, the cost of living is exceptionally high.

Must-see in Tokyo

After a day of rest, we began our tour of key tourist destinations in Tokyo. We started with Odaiba, one of the man-made seashores in Tokyo Bay. A hearty desi lunch at Mumbai Restaurant in the sprawling Aqua City Mall was followed by some shopping and photography. In the background stood the stunning Rainbow Bridge, which connects the Odaiba waterfront with Tokyo Port. At night, the suspension bridge dazzles with its multi-coloured lights, giving rise to its popular name, rather than the official mouthful: Shuto Expressway No 11 Daiba Route – Port of Tokyo Connector Bridge.

On another visit to Odaiba, while taking an evening stroll in Daiba Park, a noisy group of youngsters with punkish appearances suddenly emerged. Startled and fearing potential trouble, we quickened our pace, but they appeared friendly and sober as they drew closer. One of them offered to take our pictures with my mobile phone. On learning that we were from Pakistan, they seemed quite amused, likely encountering visitors from our country for the first time. They were all smiles when we said that we were thoroughly enjoying our stay in their beautiful country. Appreciative bows followed. We were careful not to offer handshakes, knowing that Japanese people generally prefer to maintain physical distance, except with their immediate family – and their pets.

Shinjuku City is a popular shopping district in Tokyo, which we visited frequently. It is home to the world’s busiest railway station – Shinjuku Station. This vast above-ground and underground transport hub boasts 52 platforms and 200 entry and exit gates. It stands as a marvel of advanced technology and efficient management, with train arrivals and departures timed down to the second. Also located in Shinjuku is the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, which serves as the administrative nerve centre of the city during the day. At night, its towering façade transforms into a spectacular sound-and-light projection screen, attracting many visitors.

Touring Tokyo

Shinjuku is a hive of commercial activity, offering everything from trendy sushi and lobster restaurants for humans to specialised cafés for poodles, pugs and terriers. The Japanese are avid dog-lovers, and hotels, spas and beauty salons for pets thrive in every locality.

For souvenirs to take back home, we headed to the famous Sens -ji Temple market. The temple, first established in 645 AD, is Tokyo’s oldest Buddhist shrine. Unfortunately, after surviving for 1,300 years, it was fire-bombed in 1945, shortly before the end of World War II. The shrine, along with its two entrance gates and the adjacent five-storey pagoda, was meticulously rebuilt and completed in 1973.

Our primary interest lay in Nakamise-Dori Street, which leads to the temple entrance. This lively street is lined with around 90 shops selling traditional wares and handicrafts. We browsed through an array of souvenirs, including mugs, glasses, fridge magnets and ceramic items featuring iconic landmarks such as Mount Fuji, Tokyo Tower and Tokyo Skytree. The saleswomen, some of whom were in their eighties, spoke passable English – an uncommon skill in Japan, where the language is not widely spoken or prioritised.

A popular trend at Sens -ji is the rent-a-kimono experience, with many traditionally dressed Western tourists roaming around, capturing memorable photographs in the temple’s picturesque surroundings.

Shibuya City is another major commercial hub in Tokyo, featuring a bustling railway terminus. One of its most fascinating attractions is the iconic Shibuya Crossing, popularly known as Scramble Crossing. With up to 3,000 people crossing simultaneously each time the traffic lights turn green, it holds the distinction of being the world’s busiest pedestrian intersection. Like many others, we couldn’t resist capturing a video as we made our way across. What amazed us the most was the impeccable adherence to traffic rules – despite our numerous visits to Shibuya, not once did we witness a vehicle running a red light. In Japan, traffic violations such as running a red light incur hefty fines and can even result in imprisonment.

Near the crossing, we came across a long queue of people patiently waiting to take photographs with a monument dedicated to a dog. The statue of Hachiko, a loyal Akita who famously waited for his deceased owner every day at Shibuya Station, stands as a touching tribute to unwavering devotion. Hachiko Square, where the statue is located, has become a popular meeting point for young people and tourists alike.

Ginza is one of Tokyo’s most fashionable shopping districts, home to numerous internationally renowned department stores, boutiques, restaurants and coffee houses. Considered one of the most expensive, elegant and luxurious areas in the world, it attracts the rich and famous. We were quite content to drive through Ginza several times, especially at night, when its electronic billboards and neon signs brought the area to life. Not far from Ginza is the Imperial Palace, the residence of the emperor. Nestled within a lush, forested park and surrounded by a moat, the palace offers a picturesque setting. A popular 5-kilometre jogging track encircles the palace grounds, attracting fitness enthusiasts from across the city.

Hakone and Mount Fuji
A visit to Tokyo would be incomplete without seeing Mount Fuji up close. Having known about Mount Fuji since our school days, we were thrilled to witness its splendour firsthand. The two-hour drive from Minato (in Tokyo) to Hakone Checkpoint was a delightful experience, taking us through dense forests dotted with charming cottages. Upon reaching Lake Ashi, we quickly captured photographs of two ‘pirate’ boats packed with tourists, sailing across the lake’s stunning azure waters. After a delicious desi lunch at The Bistro, we headed to the nearby Hakone Ropeway, a cable car facility that transports visitors to wakudani Station, from where Mount Fuji is visible in all its glory. The famous hot springs in the area spew pungent, sulphur-laden gases, their distinct odour filling the air. A unique local attraction is the black eggs, boiled in the hot springs and considered a novelty snack among tourists.

After a memorable day filled with scenic views and exciting experiences, we returned with countless photographs to cherish the outing.

Yokohama
One Sunday afternoon, we decided to visit Yokohama, just an hour’s drive from Tokyo. Yokohama is known for more than just vehicle tyres – it is Japan’s second-largest city by population and the largest municipality in terms of area. As a major economic, cultural and commercial hub of the Greater Tokyo Area, the city plays a significant role in the country’s development. Driving the 40-odd kilometres to Yokohama, we passed numerous factories and warehouses lining the route.

Yokohama boasts some remarkable architectural landmarks. Among the places we visited were the nautical-themed Intercontinental Grand Hotel, the Yokohama Port Memorial Hall, the Customs Museum – reminiscent of the Karachi Port Trust building – and the Zenrinmon Gate, which leads into the city’s vibrant China Town. Compared to Tokyo, Yokohama felt more open and spacious, offering a refreshing change of pace. Our Sunday was well spent exploring the city and taking in its unique charm.

Kawagoe
The final day trip of our stay in Tokyo took us to Kawagoe, a city renowned for its historic buildings and rich cultural heritage. Kawagoe was a focus of conflicts between various shogunates for over six centuries. Although a fire in 1893 destroyed parts of the city, some of the old buildings have stood the test of time. The main street was bustling with local and foreign tourists, with jin-rickshaws pulled by men in traditional attire being a popular attraction.

One of the city’s most notable landmarks is the 130-year-old Bell Tower, which houses a bell that is manually struck four times a day to mark the time. Nearby, we visited the well-maintained Hikawa Buddhist shrine and its adjoining cemetery. Walking through the streets of Kawagoe, we were immersed in the cultural heritage of Japan, experiencing firsthand the city’s historical essence and vibrant atmosphere.

Some observations

During our stay, we observed that most Japanese people prefer to keep to themselves, though never in a way that comes across as snobbish. Conversations in trains and buses are rare.

The Japanese are meticulous in their attention to detail and carry out their tasks with unwavering dedication. All the places we visited in and around Tokyo were impeccably clean – littering seems to be virtually non-existent in Japanese society. When it comes to fashion, the Japanese favour understated and muted colours; bright, gaudy hues are usually reserved for festivals. Shades of blue, grey, white and beige dominate daily wear.

On several occasions, we were amused to see women pushing baby strollers – not with infants, but with small, well-groomed poodles inside. Public transport, particularly buses and trains, is the preferred mode of travel. Taxis are expensive and parking for private cars can be a challenge. Traffic discipline is strictly enforced. It was remarkable to see young children confidently using pedestrian crossings on their own. Honking is virtually unheard of.

Parks and gardens are landscaped to mimic natural settings and are maintained with exceptional care. For those looking to slow down and escape the fast-paced city life, visiting a park offers a serene retreat. Street crime is virtually non-existent. Women and children can move about safely, even in isolated areas and late at night.

However, the long working hours and immense job pressures have taken a toll on family life and have contributed to a high suicide rate. It was heartening to see elderly people remaining active, performing light tasks well into their seventies and eighties.

A unique feature of Japanese neighbourhoods is the daily testing of loudspeakers with a short musical jingle at 5 pm. This serves both as a disaster preparedness check and a reminder of pack-up time. Despite Japan’s advanced technology and infrastructure, there seems to be little enthusiasm among the young for joining the military, as memories of past militarism still evoke feelings of regret.

Tailpiece: Our key takeaway from the one-month stay in Tokyo is that the Japanese approach every task with dedication and a sense of national pride, striving to make their country the best in the world.


The writer can be reached at ksrtfl@yahoo.com.

Touring Tokyo