ujranwala is a relatively modern city in the northern Punjab. It gained greater significance. during Ranjit Singh’s ascent and the establishment of the Sikh Empire in 1799. It has many Sikh and Hindu cultural heritage sites. Founded in the 18th Century, Gujranwala was the capital of the Sukarchakia misl between 1763 and 1799.

Situated in a small square at the heart of the old city, the haveli of Maharaja Ranjit Singh has a red brick facade, now facing a fish market. The remnants of the mansion include a courtyard, columns and a few rooms. The room where Ranjit Singh was born has survived.

The interior exudes tranquillity. During Ranjit Singh’s days the courtyard and the halls used to teem with Mahan Singh’s household, servants and extended family. Like some other historical sites in the country, the mansion has suffered on account of encroachment and vandalism.

The mansion holds profound significance for Sikhs. In the late 18th Century, it likely had more greenery and open spaces. Today, it stands in a crowded environment surrounded by illegally constructed temporary housing. The hereditary property, once a symbol of the wealth and fame of Mahan Singh, Ranjit Singh’s father, is now in a dilapidated state. Despite being designated a protected cultural heritage building by the Department of Archaeology, its upkeep leaves much to be desired. Archaeology officials seldom visit the site. Despite allocation of funds by the government for its restoration, the work has not commenced so that the funds remain unutilised.

The haveli began losing its lustre following the Partition. Soon after independence, it was used as a shelter for refugees from India. Later, the structure was used as a police post. It served the role until 2006, when the post was relocated. The building was then handed over to the Department of Archaeology and Museums.

As a resident of Gakhar town within Gujranwala district, I had often heard tales about the place. In October 2023, I traversed the narrow streets leading to the fortified portion of Gujranwala. The place is accessible only by bike or on foot. As I arrived the square early in the morning, the shops in the old city streets remained shuttered. Only the food vendors were opening for the day.

Upon reaching the haveli, I discovered that the construction of shops is obstructing the front entrance facing the fish and vegetable market. I made some inquiries from fish sellers and learnt that access to the mansion was possible only through the back door. On approaching the door, I found it locked. Locals informed me that Aftab Babar Bhatti, an elderly person, is the custodian of the mansion. Bhatti’s residence was situated next to the mansion.

I called on Mr Bhatti and expressed my desire to visit the mansion. He accompanied me and unlocked the door to grant me access. Upon entering the mansion and witnessing its condition, I was deeply disappointed. The state of evident neglect highlighted the authorities’ lack of attention to this historical site.

Surrounded by the shops, the mansion is hard to locate except by the locals. Accompanied by a local guide, I entered the room where Ranjit Singh was born. The visit was marred by the disconcerting sight of some local boys throwing stones into the courtyard of the haveil from the roofs of their houses, apparently oblivious to the historical significance of the place. Notably, there is no office nearby representing any authority overseeing the heritage site.

The open courtyard divides the building into two parts. Maharaja Ranjit Singh was born to Bibi Raj Kaur on November 13, 1780. He spent much of his childhood in this house.

The lack of interest in preserving this historical site is quite apparent. The walls have developed cracks, the plasters are peeling and in many places the bricks have been exposed. The floor, apparently re-laid with chips, is dilapidated and uneven. Most of the rooms lack door. The walls and ceilings have been whitewashed. The absence of lighting arrangements does not help. The historic home of a man who once ruled the Punjab appears abandoned and haunted. It is bereft of any indication of its illustrious past.

The roof of the building showed a similar state of disrepair. It was marred by garbage thrown from neighbouring houses. Loose bricks were scattered across the roof. An old wall was the lone indicator of the building’s significant connection to the history of the Punjab. I was told that at one stage, the municipal authorities had used the haveli as a dumping ground for garbage.

I was disappointed. There is potential to transform this site into a tourist attraction. In particular, Sikhs residing in Pakistan and elsewhere would be interested in visiting it. Thousands of people still visit it annually. Even a modest renovation effort can elevate this mansion into a premier tourist attraction and an integral part of Gujranwala’s identity.

Safeguarding such magnificent historical places is not only a moral imperative but also a national duty, ensuring that their cultural significance continues to enrich the nation’s collective heritage.

The visitors can be charged a suitable amount to generate funds for its maintenance. Continuous neglect has resulted in the collapse of some portions of the structure.

Layout

The mansion has an elongated rectangular shape, oriented in a north-south direction but slightly canted towards the northeast, aligning with the general direction of Gujranwala’s urban fabric. The primary facade is crafted from brick and plaster and embellished with wood inlay. Following the design principles of Mughal-era buildings, the surface exhibits a bilateral organisation, featuring a parallel arrangement of rectangular panels. These panels are delineated by decorative interlocking columns spanning the arches.

On both the ground floor and upper levels, there is a shallow space beneath each arch, housing alternating elements such as brick benches, arched windows and entrances. The expansive bay above the main entrance showcases a profile characterised by several gently curved roofs in the bungalow style. This architectural style gained prominence during the reign of Shah Jehan.

The foremost hall, also the largest, is a double-height reception chamber that extends across the entire width of the building. Although it is currently devoid of any furnishings, one can imagine its past grandeur as a symbol of Mahan Singh’s authority. Imagining the space with luxurious furniture, brightly coloured wall paintings and subdued glow of firelights evokes a historical splendour.

There are two chowks (courtyards) deep within the building – a sizable central one and a more secluded one at the rear. A plaque in the eastern room next to the inner courtyard marks the spot where Ranjit Singh was born.

Ranjit Singh, the founder of the Sikh empire, was born on November 13, 1780. He received no formal education but learnt the martial arts, horse riding and firearms training. At the tender age of ten, he earned the name ‘Ranjit,’ meaning victorious in battle, for leading an army against Sardar Pir Muhammad.

At the age of 12, Ranjit Singh ascended to the throne of the Sukarchakia misl following the death of his father, Mahan Singh. His reputation and recognition soared when he triumphed over the army of Afghan ruler Shah Zaman, thwarting the latter’s attempt to annex the Punjab. At its zenith, the Sikh empire he founded in 1799 extended from the Khyber Pass in the west to Western Tibet in the east and from Kashmir in the north to Mithankot in the south. Annexing Lahore in 1799, Ranjit Singh unified the 12 Sikh misls under his reign. On April 12, 1801, he was proclaimed Maharaja of the Punjab.

Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s formidable army was called the Khalsa. In 1820, he embarked on a modernisation initiative, enlisting European officers, many of whom had previously served in Napoleon’s army, to train the infantry and the artillery.

Ranjit Singh imported war supplies to enhance the military capability of the empire and established cannon foundries and gunpowder factories. Under Ranjit Singh’s leadership, the Sikhs emerged as a powerful political entity.

His demise on June 27, 1839, marked the unravelling of his kingdom, hastened by the First Anglo-Sikh War and conflicts among various Sikh chieftains.

Encroachments

In 2012 or 2013, the ground floor section beneath the front porch was turned into green grocers’ shops. This led to the destruction of the main staircase, which was repurposed as a two-wheeler parking area. Concerns linger that continued encroachments may threaten the preservation of the main building.

I asked Aftab Babar Bhatti, the custodian about his role. He said the keys to the mansion were entrusted to him by a legal representative of the Department of Archaeology. He owns several shops and a workshop close to the mansion, which he rents to tenants. His residence is adjacent to the haveli. His sons have a small factory nearby. His family has lived in the area for several generations - for over 200 years, he says.

Aftab Babar says in the absence of requisite staff and an office for the Department of Archaeology, the responsibility for maintaining cleanliness at the haveli and assisting the visitors has been entrusted to him 25 years ago. He says what used to be a substantial influx of visitors had dwindled over time. He says Sikhs India and Pakistan continue to visit the mansion, albeit in smaller numbers. Some visitors from Canada and other Western countries also come by. He says all visitors express profound disappointment upon witnessing the mansion’s state of dilapidation and the apparent neglect. He says recently, two Chinese diplomats visited the mansion.

He also says frequent visits by researchers disturb the neighbours. Maintaining a balance between preserving the historical sites and respecting the local community’s needs is a potential challenge.

Preservation

Aftab Babar says that despite consistent advocacy by the Sikh community and others, calls for preservation of this historical building have not been answered. He says that several officers from the Gujranwala deputy commissioner’s office and the Pakistan Archaeology Department have visited the site at various times. However, no concrete steps have been taken to renovate the mansion.

The custodian says a portion of the mansion was vandalised by rioters following the attack on the Babri Masjid in India in 1992. He says that funds were collected by the authorities a few years ago. However, those have not been utilised to restore the haveli.

Some fish vendors in the area said the assistant commissioner in charge, accompanied by officials from the relevant departments, had recently visited the haveli. They say they had been told the building was a protected heritage site. Some of them said the large number of visitors was a factor in the deterioration of the building.

The neighbours said the Auqaf Board had assumed responsibility for the mansion and demolished a part of the ground floor. Six shops had been built in its place. These shops were subsequently sold to agents affiliated with the Vegetable Commission.

Once the main staircase was demolished, the Board repurposed the area into a parking lot, which is now open for public use.

In January 2012, the locals reported an attempt by a land grab mafia to dismantle the historic structure to construct a shopping plaza in its place.

The government must prioritise and implement substantive measures to preserve and restore this remarkable heritage. Minor repairs to the collapsed sections of the haveli can avert further deterioration of its condition.

The writer is a freelance journalist and researcher based in Gujranwala. He is particularly interested in history and heritage sites in Pakistan. He can be reached at waseemshabbir78@gmail.com