A battle between revival and progress

The transfer of Noor Jahan’s tomb to the care of the Walled City Authority generates controversy

A battle between revival and progress


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oor Jahan’s tomb, situated in Shahdara near Lahore, is a 17th-Century mausoleum built to honour the Nur Jahan. The tomb is one of several monuments in the area, including Jahangir’s Tomb, Akbari Serai and Asif Khan’s Tomb.

Emperor Jahangir and Nur Jahan, then known as Mehrun Nisa, were married in 1611. She was thirty-four years old at the time. She had been married earlier and has a daughter. With her second marriage, she became Jahangir’s twentieth wife. Shortly after the marriage, she was bestowed with the title Noor Mahal (Light of the Palace). Later, she was honoured with the title of Noor Jahan (Light of the World). In the year 1037 AH, a coin was minted in her name. This was the only instance of a woman’s name appearing on a coin during the Mughal period.

Noor Jahan is credited with many of the artistic, cultural and architectural achievements of Jahangir’s era. These include the distillation of itr gulab (rose essence). Noor Jahan is said to have possessed great physical strength and courage. She was also famous for her marksmanship. She often accompanied her husband on hunting trips.

Noor Jahan had the reputation of being a beauty with brains. She was multi-lingual and is known to have composed poetry in Persian. Maulvi Zakaullah Dehlvi writes about her literary skills in his book Tarikh-i-Hind: “It is said that she had a literary mind and wrote poetry with Makhfi as a pen name. She was also a great story teller. Her intellect was unmatched. To this day, people imitate her intuition in high and elite gatherings.”

A battle between revival and progress

Between 1611 and 1627, Noor Jahan had effectively made most of the important decisions for the Mughal empire. She also contributed to religious causes and promoted overseas trade.

Between 1611 and 1627, Noor Jahan had effectively made most of the important decisions for the Mughal empire. She also contributed to religious causes and promoted overseas trade.

Shah Jahan settling an annual allowance of two lakhs of rupees for her.

The final resting place of Noor Jahan is a red stones building located close to the River Ravi’s western bank. She is said to have spent her last days in near solitude in the company of her only daughter, Ladli Begum. She died on December 16, 1645, at 68.

In the 19th Century, Noor Jahan’s tomb was looted by Ranjit Singh’s army. The mausoleum was stripped of its decorative stones and marble during the Sikh occupation of Lahore. The materials were used to decorate the Golden Temple at Amritsar.

During British rule, the tomb suffered further damage when a railway line was laid built between the mausoleums of Asif Jah and Noor Jahan. Minor repairs were later made but not a full restoration.

A battle between revival and progress

According to contemporary accounts, Noor Jahan’s tomb took four years to complete at a cost of Rs 300,000. There is currently no clear demarcation of the mausoleum grounds and a part of it is being used as a cricket ground.

The tomb was built on a raised podium in the style of a throne. The platform measured 158 square feet. The mausoleum is square, with each side measuring 124 feet. It has a height of 19.6 feet. The minarets may have risen from the corners of an earlier tomb, similar to Jahangir’s tomb nearby.

In recent times, some efforts have been made to restore the monument. Unfortunately, these have resulted in a new look and the loss of the delicate original floral and geometric flourishes, once lovingly preserved.

In recent times, some efforts have been made to restore the monument. Unfortunately, these have resulted in a new look and the loss of the delicate original floral and geometric flourishes, once lovingly preserved.

The tomb is located in the middle of a Persian-style char bagh. The original garden has not survived. It once had tulips, roses and jasmine flowers.

Her father Imad-ud-Daula’s tomb was built using white marble. Noor Jahan’s tomb, however, is mainly covered with red sandstone, with a roof similar to her husband’s. The exterior features seven vaulted arches covered with marble and decorated with floral mosaics in semi-precious stones. The central arch on each side leads out from three flanking vaulted arches.

Early photographs of the shrine show a dilapidated state, with only a bare shell remaining. There are, however, faint traces of delicate frescoes visible in the interior niches. The minute panelling was executed in intricate patterns. The cornices in some rooms are honeycombed. The inner floor is covered with marble; the outer platform is made of sandstone. The exterior, encased in red sandstone, was adorned with white, black and yellow marble. It had various floral motifs.

Within the central vaulted chamber of the mausoleum, there is a marble plinth holding two cenotaphs – one in memory of Noor Jahan and the other for her daughter, Ladli Begum. The construction of the chamber was attributed to Hakeem Ajmal (1912). The original marble sarcophagus, bearing intricate decorative workmanship and featuring the name of Allah, was designed in a style and size similar to those seen in Jahangir’s tomb.

A battle between revival and progress

A verse, attributed to Noor Jahan, is inscribed: “There is neither a lamp nor a rose on the grave of this poor stranger; there is neither moth smoke nor a nightingale’s song.”

In recent times, efforts have been undertaken to restore the monument. Unfortuantely, these have resulted in a completely new look and the loss of the delicate original floral and geometric flourishes, once lovingly preserved.

The Punjab government has now transferred the administrative control of Noor Jahan’s Tomb to the Walled City of Lahore Authority (WCLA), with the aim of better protection, conservation and tourism initiatives. WCLA officials says that their goal is to ensure cleanliness at the monument, restore its structure and attract domestic and foreign tourists. The authority is also responsible for managing the Lahore Fort and the Royal Bath at Delhi Gate.

The Department of Archeology was initially vehemently opposed to this transfer. Its officials had pointed out that the move lacked legal basis and risked irreparable damage to the heritage structure. They complained that the WCLA was transforming the heritage sites into commercial buildings for financial gain and had in the past used heavy machinery that had damaged heritage buildings.

The Archaeology Department claimed that it had maintained historical sites for decades and had highly skilled staff fit to preserve these buildings. In the end, the caretaker government vested the powers of the archaeology director general in the WCLA chairman.

The WCLA has garnered attention for its rapid restoration and renovation of some dilapidated historic buildings.

The WCLA officials say the damaged decayed parts of the tomb will be efficiently rebuilt and preserved for the long term. They say tourists visiting other cultural sites managed by the WCLA will be encouraged to add the tomb in their itinerary.


The writer is based in Gujranwala. He is keenly interested in exploring and writing about archaeological and heritage sites in Pakistan. He may be reached at waseemshabbir78@gmail.com

A battle between revival and progress