PATERNOSTER, South Africa: A tiny beach restaurant in South Africa shot to fame last year when it was voted the world´s best eating house for unique dishes based on the essence of the sea.
But the limelight swiftly faded after the coronavirus pandemic arrived — and today, the much-acclaimed Wolfgat is counting its losses. Eateries across the country have been shut to diners since March 27 when a nationwide lockdown was imposed to curb the spread of coronavirus. Starting last month, blanket restrictions were eased slightly, enabling to restaurants cook but just for takeaways. “It was quite a roller-coaster ride. Everything happened very quickly and drastically,” said Kobus van der Merwe, chef and owner of the Wolfgat, located in the remote beach town of Paternoster, a two-hour-drive from Cape Town. Under normal circumstances, Wolfgat — Afrikaans for “wolf hole” — can serve a maximum of 20 sitting guests, specialising in dishes made from foraged ingredients such as seaweed, beach succulents and wild coastal berries. But the pressure of the lockdown has weighed heavily on the restaurant, which barely three years after it opened won the top prize at the inaugural 2019 World Restaurant Awards in Paris. Wolfgat won rave reviews for its small dishes, such as Saldanha bay mussels served with cauliflower and dune celery, alongside bream presented with sorghum, snoek roe and wild sage. Foodies raved over its tasting menu served on a thatch-covered terrace overlooking the waves — at around $60 (52 euros) for seven courses, it cost a fraction of similar top-quality fare in Paris, London or New York. - Pandemic hit
But about half of its customers have been foreigners, and tourism in South Africa — as around the world — has been crippled by the pandemic. “Even before South Africa went into lockdown, a lot of our international guests had to cancel because of the situation in their country already being much worse. It´s been way more than just the lockdown period,” said van der Merwe.
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