It’s winter and while you love the woollies and the fireplace, your face, skin and hair starts revealing all those nasty, tell-tale signs of the cold weather. Your skin starts appearing dry and flaky, your hair begins to show signs of dandruff and your altogether lovely balance is completely thrown off. While you may think you’re doing everything right, have you ever stopped to wonder how much is enough? Can too much of a good thing be bad?
Are you exfoliating too much?
Admit it. You have been trying to scrub off dry, flaky patches of skin in the shower. It seems harmless-slash-logical, but exfoliating too often or with a scrub that’s too harsh can backfire big time: Your skin gets irritated, and then your dry, flaky patches return and often get worse.Only gentle scrubs can remove flakes and make dull, wintry skin glow again. What to do?
1. Less is more
The absolute maximum you should be exfoliating is three times a week. Overexfoliate and you’re likely to create tiny cracks in the skin barrier that lead to more loss of hydration and inflammation. You think you’re fixing the problem, but you’re actually making it worse.
2. Oily skin can take more
Use a salicylic acid-based cleanser, like Mario Badescu Acne Facial Cleanser every day. The Salicylic acid is excellent at removing pore-clogging oil, and it doesn’t traumatize the skin like a physical exfoliant.
3. Sugar is a gentle scrub
If you’re only dry in a few spots -- say, around your mouth and chin, or on your eyelids -- a scrub with sugar crystals is your best bet. They’re mild and gently dissolve dead skin cells without irritation, which makes them great for the thin areas around the mouth and eyes. We like Fresh Sugar Face Polish, which also contains strawberry seeds for super gentle buffing.
4. Acids are best for anti-aging
An exfoliant or peel with alpha hydroxy acids can remove dead skin cells and help stimulate collagen production to soften fine lines. Look for one with glycolic, lactic, citric, malic or tartaric acid on the ingredient list, like Kate Somerville ExfoliKate Intensive Exfoliating Treatment. But even in the winter, alpha hydroxy acids can leave your skin sensitive to sunlight, so definitely wear sunscreen on the slopes and even your morning commute. If you’re using retinol or prescription tretinoin, skip acid-based exfoliants altogether. It’s way too much for your skin.
Are you over-moisturizing?
If you’re like us, you’ve been slathering on heavy moisturizers ever since the seasons started to change. And why not? Winter tends to dry us out from head to toe. But recently, we read a tip from ZeinObagi, MD, the top dermatologist behind the ZO Skin Health line, that made us question our whole routine. According to Dr. Obagi, it’s possible for your skin to actually become too hydrated.
"With prolonged use, rich creams and lotions or poor quality moisturizers can cause your skin to become weak and lazy," Dr. Obagi explains. "Moisturizers are formulated from water, lipid, and protein in various percentages," he says. The skin’s surface contains these same building blocks as part of its structure. "Adding these elements to the skin’s surface sends a negative message to the body that the surface has enough of these elements, forcing the body to stop delivering water to the epidermis. Nutrient delivery also stops."
The result? Skin becomes addicted to moisturizer rather than doing the work itself. Repeated application of moisturizer can lead to "dependency on external sources for moisture and the development of what is known as an acquired skin dryness, irritability and reduced vitality which can be calmed down by applying more moisturizers," says Dr. Obagi. Further, "Moisturizers arrest skin’s natural exfoliation and dead cells accumulate on skin surface."
The bottom line? Only use moisturizer if you truly require it. "Moisturizers should be used occasionally when needed," says Dr. Obagi, such as when skin is subject to "severe cold, severe heat, long term sun exposure." It may be worthwhile to try and wean your skin off the heavy creams and see if it’s able to adjust. All of us know someone who puts nothing on their face, and their skin is fine -- so it is possible, right?
Are you over-shampooing your hair?
There’s nothing wrong with wanting clean, fresh hair. But too much washing removes the hair’s natural oils, which can lead to dryness and split ends. On the other hand, going too long without washing your hair leads to a very greasy scalp. So how often should you lather up? That depends on your hair texture and type. Most people should wash their hair two or three times a week, but those with coarse or tightly curled hair can push it to one week between washes. And those with oily hair may need it washed every day. Still confused?
1. Consult your stylist
Work with a professional who can help determine your hair type and recommend the best hair care regimen and products for you.
2. Shampoo 101
Use protein-based shampoos. Change every few months to avoid residue buildup. If you have oily hair, try rinsing hair with a solution of lemon juice and water once each month.
3. Space your washings
Add an extra day between washings and see whether it helps your hair achieve moisture balance.
4. Brush with purpose
Brushing and combing your hair redistributes the scalp’s oils. If your hair is dry, brushing can moisturize damaged ends. But if your hair is oily, avoid brushing from the scalp and just brush the ends of tresses.