Fuoco: Islamabad gets a what?

October 17, 2021

What does it get? It gets Fuoco, the newest Italian restaurant in Islamabad that was jam-packed on a Friday night and still functioned wonderfully.

Islamabad turns up in full force for a weekend dinner at Fuoco, known already for their steak, clams, and pizza.
Islamabad turns up in full force for a weekend dinner at Fuoco, known already for their steak, clams, and pizza.

We’ve heard all the Islamabad jokes. The city that always sleeps, deadwood, why did Islamabad need a McDonald’s for burgers when it had Islamabadis, etc. etc. Okay, I made that last one up. No one says that. And when we make jokes about Islamabad, it’s really because we’re so jealous that they’ve got all the trees and hills and great weather while we just got the beach and Burns Road bun kebab.

We also – and when I say we, I mean Karachi – also got all the great restaurants. If you’re going out on any night of the week, no matter what the budget, or the mood, you are sure to find something that fits, and tastes amazing. And to be perfectly honest, Karachi folk are always a little disappointed in Islamabad’s food. Unless you’re eating chapli kebab, they just smell, taste, and feel different there, and you’ve chosen wisely.

However, Islamabad now has Fuoco, an Italian restaurant that’s just in its infancy, literally. The restaurant has generous interiors and plenty of space to sit on a small patio, and outdoors as well. The one way all Islamabad cafes beat Karachi is that you can sit outside and actually enjoy yourself, instead of being cranky about the humidity (if you have hair on your head, you know what I mean). Or the view (if you’ve ever stepped out of your house in Karachi, you know what I mean).

Fuoco is currently not taking reservations, and is seating people as they arrive. Despite this, our party was seated within minutes of arrival, on a smaller table, while the actual table was prepped for us. Though we had to move once more, the staff was incredibly accommodating and pleasant about the process.

Appetizers and soups arrived almost as soon as we sat down, so perhaps within 25 minutes of ordering, and they were absolutely delightful.

Of the soups, we recommend the mushroom soup for those cold winter days; unlike most ‘cream of’ soups, the Fuoco mushroom soup had a depth of flavor that was both subtle but prominent. The spinach soup with ricotta cheese, poached egg and corn was quite delicious as well.

The standout of this course for us was the fig salad: fresh, crisp, at once tart and sweet with the kick that certain greens bring to the plate. An immediate note was made at the table to replicate the salad at home first thing the next day. However the mussels were perhaps overcooked, as they were rather shriveled within their shells.

Fuoco: Islamabad gets a what?

For entrees, the definitive winner for me was the spaghetti and meatballs. The meatballs were generous and bursting with flavor, and the tomato sauce was on point. The clam ravioli and spinach ravioli were good, though a little bland; while the gnocchi was described as: “exactly how gnocchi should be.”

The one risk we took was on the Modena burger. However, the smashed beef burger patty was juicy and the caramelized onions balanced the sharp cheddar. While in the general area of fast-ish foods, the Fuoco pizza is quite a hit too.

The night ended quite dramatically for us, as we sat down to dinner, we enjoyed the cool early October breeze and the gentle lightning in a distant sky. However it did start raining as we finished our meal, and the hosts were quick to erect umbrellas over all the tables. The gesture and efficiency were both great, but then a stormy wind threatened to crash the umbrellas over our heads, and again, the very brilliant Fuoco crew transferred all outdoor diners indoors without a hitch.

To sum it up: good food, great service, definitely give it a shot if you live in Islamabad or plan to visit soon.

Fuoco: Islamabad gets a what?