Manto gave a new dimension to short story writing. But he was always critical of common folks, calling them “Vimto.” This was because the most popular soda water drink in his time was Vimto. Other drinks were banana, rose, ice cream soda, lemon, ginger etc. They came in various colours — green, red, orange, yellow and dark brown. Some were colourless.

Most of these drinks have now become obsolete. I realised this when I saw an old man asking for a bottle of lemon. He was informed that the times have changed. Yet, while passing through Bhatti Gate area, I came across an advertisement that said: “Thaa thaa ki awaaz kay saath, goli wali bottle!” Before the tin cap was introduced some sort of glass ball was inserted to seal the gas and liquid inside the bottle which had to be pushed down with the thumb to drink its contents. This has staged a comeback only for the enthusiasts.

Aerated drinks in glass bottles were first introduced in the subcontinent in 1851. These drinks claimed to be energising and good for the digestive system. They soon became a favourite with those who could afford these. The drinks also became a lethal weapon in street fights when the rivals would grab bottles from a bewildered stall owner and throw them at each other’s feet. As the bottles broke, the gas would send tiny shards injuring whoever happened to be close enough. “Botlain chal gayiin” would be the news caption. This was a sort of IED.

This being a hot and humid region, dehydration was always a problem. Hence, all sorts of drinks had become part of our staple diet. Lassi, milk and even plain water were always consumed in moderate quantities to recharge the bodily fluids. Some local sherbets prepared with various herbs were popular with people of all ages as well as the sick and ailing. In Qila Gujjar Singh, Hakim Hakeemuddin, Hazik Hakim with his clinic, under a 200 years old banyan tree, sold a drink which had healing properties and was so refreshing that even bees hovered around to taste the nectar. In extended summertime, stalls, set up at the busy locations, sold cold sherbets containing tukhm malanga and goond kateera.

Katchi lassi — or milk diluted with water and ice — was always available outside schools and busy thoroughfares. Shakar Cola, a drink made with brown sugar and a little salt, was more economical. What’s more, it was a very effective way to ward off sunstrokes. (I guess, the ORS is inspired from this drink.)

More companies introduced the now renowned brands of the drink that could be added to cold water and even milk. An Englishman in Renala (Renwala) Khurd, next to Col Taylor’s stud farms, established ‘squash’ drinks made of various citrus fruits that could be mixed with water and ice.

Another indigenous drink was kanji. Brewed out of black carrots and some herbs, it was available in early spring only. Placed in large terracotta vessels, covered with red cloth, this drink was sold on hand-driven carts.

Internationally, a brown soft drink with heavy gas was introduced in a sensuously shaped bottle. But it had a late entry in Pakistan. It was only during the late fifties that this drink hit the market here. Earlier, UP and Rustam Soda waters were available. Some station wagon cars parked at the Charing Cross and the City Railway Station had smaller pumps installed which served the customers with sweet soda water.

Another novel contraption was a large metal vessel with a long, protruding pipe. The man carrying it had many glasses displayed on his belt. He would fill a glass for the customer by lowering himself, and pour back the drink into the vessel several times to the delight of the onlookers. I have seen such drink vendors in Istanbul and Damascus which prove to be a great tourist attraction.

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A coachman is a moving gazetteer. Once, while taking us to school, passing through Old Anarkali, where local drinks were manufactured, he commented that the new international drink — the cola — would ruin the local drinks. Later, he said that the local manufacturers too would soon make the same drink.

His prophecy proved true when many, similarly coloured drinks popped up in the market. Each had a different taste, though.

Earlier, local drinks were available for four annas each, while the newly introduced cola cost five annas. It was introduced in handy, smallish bottles, but soon a larger version was launched in the market. Today, mega size plastic bottles are available for the whole family.

There has been massive propaganda against this drink. Still, the fact remains that this is the largest manufacturing company in the world. Various other colas have emerged over the years, vying for their share. Some of these drinks are in orange hues and some even colourless. Zero-calorie, or sugar free, drinks have successfully lured the diabetics and weight watchers.

Some fruit juices in bottles or packages are thought to be nourishing, though the addition of preservatives for longer shelf life is a big question mark. Incidentally, citruses are not available in summers, except for the lemon which makes the very refreshing ishkanjbeen (or lemonade). You can easily make this at home also.

Our country is blessed with the finest sugarcane. Its juice extracted through rollers, added with some lemon and ginger, and served with lots of ice, rehydrates you fully and restores your sugar level.

Hand carts, set up under a big canvas umbrella, attract those looking for a cool drink. The greatest handicap is the frequently used glasses which are not thoroughly washed after each serving. There is always the risk of contamination and spread of diseases like hepatitis.

But it isn’t convenient to carry one’s own glass where you go. Consequently, bottled or packaged drinks are considered safer and more convenient, even if a lot more expensive.

The era of vacuum thermos flasks, once sold at the thermos house of Anwaar Ahmad in Anarkali, is long over. Some philanthropists set up coolers outside their houses for the convenience of the passersby, with metal cups secured with chains, much to the awe of the stalls selling cold drinks.

Different kinds of soft drinks have become a part of the menu at all food outlets. For starters, the guests are served with this drink. “Grab a …..” is the new ad slogan.

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As waters are increasingly becoming polluted, the hunt for clean, safe drinking water has grown. Bottled drinks, thus, become our primary choice.

All said and done, plain water remains the best beverage. The companies that once manufactured soft drinks are now thriving on their ‘mineral water’ bottles. (Their claim being that the water is sourced directly from the glaciers.)

At our official meetings, plastic bottles are a fixture. People take a sip or two during the proceedings and discard the leftover instead of taking it along. This small bottle costs more than the original colas. As I see it, they are simply selling dubious water in highly problematic single-use plastic containers.

Periodically, a long list of “not safe” brands is published in the press, but the matter is hushed up. Some unscrupulous people even sell tap water in the original bottles of top brands. The companies do not pursue the matter in courts, lest their genuine product too be declared fake.

(This dispatch is dedicated to Ashiq, a waiter at the cafeteria of the University of the Punjab)

The writer is a painter, a founding member of Lahore Conservation Society and Punjab Artists Association, and a former director of NCA Art Gallery. He can be reached at ajazart@brain.net.pk