The two Lahores

August 1, 2021

Lahore is composed of two diverse worlds that exist barely a few kilometres apart

The two Lahores

When I first came to Lahore from Dera Ismail Khan, my home town, a few years ago, to pursue my education, a friend who was accompanying me told me that we were going to put up at a place near Barkat Market. I had never heard of the market before. In my imagination, it was going to be some shanty piece of an accommodation in downtown Lahore, which would be crowded with people and cheap hotels/motels.

But when I arrived there, the reality was pleasantly different from what I was expecting. I realised that my expectations were due to the fact that I had only seen Old Lahore before.

I ended up spending the next two years of my academic life at the same place. But those two years were good enough to give me a taste of what Lahore today is — old as well as new. In fact, these two polar opposites exist, based on their own social, economic and cultural milieus.

Old Lahore, or the Walled City, is home to the city’s historical and cultural landmarks. Here you find a happy mix of Hindu, Sikh and Islamic architecture. The many old mosques, temples and gurdwaras speak of the diversity the city has seen in the past.

A majority of its population belongs to the lower-middle class. The streets are narrow and congested; not to mention, dirty. The havelis lend an old-world charm to the place, besides presenting a stark contrast to the paltry living conditions of the common city dweller.

Old Lahore, or the Walled City, is home to the city’s historical and cultural landmarks. Here you find a happy mix of Hindu, Sikh and Islamic architecture. The many old mosques, temples and gurdwaras speak of the diversity the city has seen in the past.

Old Lahore is well known for its desi foods and, for the tourists, its many food streets. The ‘new’ Lahore, so to say, has its own share of posh eateries — the MM Alam Road, in particular, is lined with high-profile cafés and restaurants that offer all sorts of cuisines, from continental to Chinese to desi and sushi.

The modern Lahore is quite developed. It boasts a number of housing societies that have come up over the last few decades. To an outsider, the likes of Valencia, Bahria Town, Paragon, and even DHA as well as the comparatively older Model Town offer clean and green vistas. These areas are also considered upmarket. The roads here are of international standard, especially the many underpasses and flyovers.

Traffic rules are stricter in this part of Lahore. Hence, the traffic flow is largely smooth.

The modern, or new, Lahore is also sprinkled with upscale shopping plazas and malls. These malls house high-end cinema screens.

If you are in Lahore, it’s impossible to miss the sight of a public park which you find aplenty. The Model Town Park is the biggest, and attracts tourists and locals alike. People come here for jogging, walking or just to spend time amidst nature. It also has a pool for boating right at its centre.

In the final analysis, Lahore is composed of two diverse worlds that exist a few kilometres from each other.


The writer is a freelance graphic designer.  He tweets @Ehteysham1

The two Lahores