We’re a unique group of individuals – a lawyer, a teacher, a chartered accountant and a journalist. We have an outstanding commitment to make the trip to Chitral from Lahore a success. We are in it together.

An interest in politics of the day is prominent among the traits that mark our togetherness. Each one of us is hyper charged about political developments.

What do we do when Nawaz Sharif delivers an online speech at the Pakistan Democratic Movement (PDM) rally in Gujranwala, scathing in its criticism of the government and its establishment allies, and we are unable to hear it live on account of poor internet connectivity and extreme tiredness from a long journey? We listen to it in the car the following morning – all ears, trying to process in our heads what it is all about. When Sharif reiterates his contribution in building roads, “…Wahan pe jo hamari tunnel hai, Chitral wali, Lowari Tunnel, ban gaee hai…,” (Over there, our tunnel, the one in Chitral, Lowari Tunnel, that’s ready) his words resonate closely with us.

The day before we had comfortably cruised through Lowari Tunnel to reach Saidu Sharif from Chitral. The road glistened even though the lights were off. Like any European tunnel. Smooth as silk. We had to give credit to Nawaz Sharif for building it, and shortening the travel time on the Nowshera-Dir-Chitral road (N95) in KP by several hours. Except for the tunnel, the road to Chitral is bumpy. On your way up, you don’t want to traverse it ever again. On your way down, you want to rush up again – only for the love of Chitral.

It’s easy to fall for the beauty of this valley nestled in the Hindukush mountains. The landscape is awash with beautiful autumn colours, the trees are laden with persimmon, apple and pomegranate and the air is filled with a sweet smell. The weather is as pleasant as it gets in October – never roasting hot, never freezing cold.

Our home for the four-night stay in Chitral is the 24-room, family-run hotel the Hindukush Heights. The host couple, Ghazala and Siraj ul Mulk, assisted by their enthusiastic manager, Quaid-i-Azam, (yes that’s his name!) successfully manage a cozy place. While the breakfast menu is the same every morning, the dinner menu tickles your imagination all day, till it is displayed on the small blackboard in the dining hall before doors open for the meal. It ranges from freshly grown salads to crusty warm desserts.

The dining hall is a meeting place. Converging at mealtimes, the guests become one big family. The gentle, pleasant demeanour of two servers, Iqbal and Ahmed, makes you want to extend your stay at the hotel.

We immerse ourselves completely in the captivating beauty of Chitral. We think we can shut our minds to the ugly realities of the world, enjoy the bliss while we can – till we hear murmurs about Sultan Golden marrying an under-age girl.

It’s easy to fall for the beauty of this valley nestled in the Hindukush mountains. The landscape is awash with beautiful autumn colours and trees are laden with persimmon, apple and pomegranate.

Sixty-year-old car and motorcycle stuntman Sultan Mohammad Golden, a Guinness Book record holder, is reported to have married a 12-year-old Chitrali girl in July 2020. A local civil society organisation had lodged a complaint with the district administration that eventually intervened and got their nikkahnama cancelled in September. Investigations revealed that the girl’s birth certificate was amended to get her a CNIC. A case was filed against the girl’s father under NADRA Ordinance 2000 for fraudulently obtaining a CNIC and concealing the child’s age. Golden and his young wife were on the run.

Beyond its touristic charm, Chitral remains a hotbed of inequality, systematically failing its women. The incidence of suicide by women in the valley has been increasing. In September alone three cases were reported. The last one, Sakina Bibi, a twenty-something, had jumped into Chitral River.

The market scene in Chitral is bereft of women. Even in the meena bazaar (a marketplace for women), buyers and sellers, onlookers and passersby are mostly men. In the residential area, young females, getting on or off buses, presumably on their way to or back from schools and colleges, is really a sight to behold.

A new world opens up in Bumburet – the largest valley in Kalash – where men look like Greek gods and women dress up in colourful dresses. They enjoy festivals, make wine, and worship many gods. The visit reconfirms what one has heard and read about the threat to Kalash culture from extremists and forced conversion of young girls. No surprises on that account. What is actually shocking is to see Bumburet being vandalised by visitors.

Tourists have started thronging the ‘far-off’ paradise in fancy jeeps and rickety taxis. “The ones who don’t respect our privacy are honestly not welcome,” says Shaira, our female guide in Bumburet. “They peep into our homes and leave litter around.” The common square is littered with biscuit and chips wrappers. This is the place where the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, known more colloquially as William and Kate were hosted.

Bumburet is a medley of the ancient and the modern. The roof of one house extends and becomes the passage for another. Wooden stairs connect wooden houses. Souvenir shops are many and busy. A modern, smart building meant for menstruating or pregnant women is a symbol of age-old rituals.

Women are considered impure during menstruation period or childbirth; therefore they live in this communal centre, away from their family. “We have our lockers at the centre to store items of basic need. It’s a private place. It’s quite pleasant to take a break from family,” she says. To prevent unwelcome visitors, the board at the centre’s entrance prohibits entry of men.

At the end of the trip, you wish for Chitral to retain its scenic charm, and the mighty mountains to protect it from evils of modern life.

The writer is a    freelance journalist.