A little bit of Korea in Lahore

February 2, 2020

Reviewing the Korean BBQ at Mandarin Kitchen

The diversity of cuisines available in Lahore has definitely exploded in the last few years. From desi and continental food, the city has come a long way, boasting of eateries that specialize in Mexican, Japanese, Pan Asian and even Middle Eastern cuisine. Despite the proliferation of South Asian food particularly, it is still hard to find authentic Korean food.

Lahore now has its first taste of Korean cuisine with a little known restaurant, Che-Won. It started out on the ground floor of Hotel One in Gulberg and had a discerning audience (Lahoris might have a plethora of cuisines to try from but we’re not very adventurous) that went back time and time again for their prawn pancakes, kimchi and beef bulgogi. The menu was limited but the taste was fantastic. Apart from that, Lahoris would dream of the hot-pot available at Wang-Wang in Karachi.

When we recently heard that a local pan-Asian restaurant had inaugurated Korean BBQ at their new branch, we had to try it out. Mandarin Kitchen’s sprawling new premises, just off M.M. Alam Road, not only looks swanky but also has exclusive dining items to draw in Lahore’s ever hungry crowds.

Structured around two teppanyaki tables, the Korean BBQ has its own seating and you get to experience live cooking. The menu has two options: a la carte where you choose your own protein/meat and sides and a set menu that features different courses, including a broth and dessert. We opted for the a la carte and were choosing what to have for lunch when served with a complimentary mint margarita which we re-ordered with the meal.

Now on to the grub.

We ordered the spicy Norwegian salmon and herb prawn as our main proteins and loaded up on the sides including the Gambjobokke style fried potatoes, eggplant and green bean stir-fry, cucumber salad and white rice. Since the sides came first, we couldn’t help but dig in. The eggplant and bean stir-fry was an instant favorite. In a country where meat is always the focus, it’s great to come across delicious vegetarian dishes. Caramelized with soy sauce and sauteed with garlic, the side-dish was certainly at par with the mains.

The pickled cucumber was great but the kimchi and the potatoes were a disappointment. The kimchi was bitter rather than being umami and the potatoes were just bland. The rice we never had a chance to come to because the protein had arrived at the station. Some people enjoy the experience of watching their food come together, the engagement of the olfactory senses before tasting their meal but for some it can be a bit trying, especially with the air full of spices being cooked out. Unfortunately we fell in the latter category with the spices hurting the back of our throat enough to illicit an annoying cough. Nothing that marred the experience though.

The portions, when laid out to cook, looked a little meagre but they satiated our appetites when combined with the sides and drinks. The Norwegian salmon was cooked to perfection; a cool pink in the center with a marinated flaky, melt in your mouth crust. We expected a lot more kick out of the salmon marinade which was a little bland before we added the condiments. With a little bit of soy and chilli the salmon perked up and was thoroughly enjoyed. Perhaps if the fish fillets are allowed to sit in the marinade longer so the flavor seeps in, the issue could be avoided entirely.

The prawn marinade was a lot more explosive. We had expected something mild but the prawns, de-shelled and butterflied, packed the punch we were expecting. Sadly though, the prawn itself had been over-cooked on the station. A delicate meat that is quickly finished off on high-flame, it was allowed to languish on the station for a couple of extra minutes while service preps were being made. Had the crustaceans been taken-off on time, the dish would’ve been perfect.

Overall, it was a good lunch. Though we’d started with the intention of definitely having the dessert, by the time the main meal was over we were in a food coma. It’s a fun experience to share in large groups; there’s the whole aspect of watching your food being cooked (just like Japanese teppanyaki) and sharing the different sides and meats as part of the meal. It embodies the communal spirit of food that we expect out of South Asian cuisine and is well executed for an eatery in Lahore.

A little bit of Korea in Lahore: Reviewing the Korean BBQ at Mandarin Kitchen