‘Microdosing’ is the new Botox

December 22, 2019

What is micro-botox? Does it hurts?

Microdosing had a big year. From Silicon Valley execs to A-list comedians, it seems that everyone had an opinion on the supposedly life-altering benefits of extreme moderation in 2019. But it’s not just tiny doses of THC or psychedelics making headlines: The just-a-little-bit approach is trending in beauty, too.

‘Micro-Botox’ is an injectable technique in which itty-bitty amounts of a neuromodulator are used to tighten pores and tame oil and sweat production, in addition to providing more natural-looking line reduction. According to top dermatologists in Los Angeles and New York, the procedure is a rising star in doctors’ offices everywhere.

Of course, there are nuances to the burgeoning trend and, as with any injectable, there are still risks, so studying up is the best jumping-off point. So, what does it really mean to microdose Botox, and what do you need to know before you book an appointment? Here’s a low down…

What is micro-Botox?

“Micro-Botox refers to the injection of multiple small doses of Botox into the skin,” says Chaneve Jeanniton, MD, board-certified oculofacial plastic surgeon in New York. “It’s injected superficially and therefore only targets the skin, where oil production, facial flushing, and acne occur. But it differs from conventional Botox as it does not iron out wrinkles caused by muscle contractions.” That’s right: Botox injected at the top layer of the skin works to control oil and redness while making pores appear smaller, which could mean fewer breakouts, but won’t stamp out wrinkles.

For Karyn Grossman, MD, a board-certified L.A. cosmetic dermatologist with a celebrity following, micro-Botox means just barely entering the muscle to soften, but not paralyze, the patient’s expression. “You can inject neuromodulator in different amounts in similar places [to a traditional Botox injection], but place it higher in the skin,” she says of her technique. Her main objective is to avoid the “frozen” look at all costs, which is where micro-Botox often comes in handy. “Frozen is not youthful,” she adds.

How long does it last?

Just like Botox applied in the traditional way (injected into the muscle), micro-Botox lasts up to three or four months; however, there are some potential long-term benefits when mixed with H.A. filler.

Should you mix
micro-Botox with other injectables?

Cocktailing or layering Botox with hyaluronic acid dermal filler isn’t just common; experts say that the technique is actually more valuable than the sum of its parts. “You get a synergistic effect when you decrease muscle contraction and put a little stretch [on the skin] with fillers,” Dr. Grossman says, noting that this is believed to be one way to prompt your body to make more collagen, a building block of youthful skin that tapers off as we age.

“My favorite cocktail for this treatment is Botox, hyaluronic acid filler and vitamin C,” Dr. Jeanniton says. “It results in smooth, plump, glowing skin. I will often also add PRP to the mixture for a truly sublime result.”

So, what are the risks?

“After treatment, minor swelling and redness and the possibility of slight bruising are expected, similar to regular Botox injections,” says Dr. Jeanniton. Adding in H.A. filler? Uneven texture is also a possibility, says Dr Grossman, who adds that while occlusions — which is what happens if an injector accidentally enters a vein — are rare, they can occur whenever injecting into vascular areas, even the skin. “There’s never no risk,” Dr. Grossman says.

Then, there are long term risks. “One risk is weakening of muscles on the face, which can interfere with facial expressions,” says Joshua Zeichner, MD, board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at New York’s Mount Sinai Hospital. Dr. Grossman agrees, noting that muscles of the face can eventually atrophy, which means that restraint is important if this is something you plan on maintaining.

Is micro-Botox more popular than regular Botox?

Our experts say that while it hasn’t usurped traditional Botox injection techniques, the trend shows no signs of slowing. “As issues like excess oil production are a relatively unmet need, I do think that micro-Botox will continue to gain popularity,” says Dr. Zeichner.

Different iterations of the treatment are also taking off. At Lee’s L.A. practice, injectors administer Botox mixed with H.A. filler via a microinfusion punch, which is basically a microneedling device that lightly punches the concoction into the skin using gold-plated .6mm needles. She says patients love it for both the immediate results and the longterm microneedling benefits.

Does it hurt?

Dr. Grossman notes that the closer the injection is to the surface of the skin, the more painful it is. Plus, since the product needs to be properly diffused, many injections are necessary. “It may be uncomfortable, as many pinches are given to the skin,” Dr. Zeichner says. Dr. Jeanniton adds that “a needle could be inserted anywhere from 50 to 100 times over the face compared to 5 to 20 times for traditional Botox injections,” so numbing cream is commonly applied before the treatment.


Adapted from Microdosing Is The New Botox Trend Spiking In New York & L.A. @refinery29.com

Latest fashion trends: ‘Microdosing’ is the new Botox