In Mumbai for a brief three day trip I still felt that, by the end of it, my canines had started changing to molars. Not that there was a dearth of meat. Sea food is in abundance as is the poultry favourite - chicken - but then a Chicken or Mutton Whopper (at Burger King) or the general inclusion of Mumbai masala to all fast food doesn’t really cut the mustard when you’re used to sinking your teeth into red meat. The best way to enjoy Mumbai cuisine is to go vegan and therefore vegan it was! Here’s a very brief selection of some morsel ‘items’ that you can’t return from Mumbai without experiencing…

The ‘Maghai’ Paan

We’re used to the saada (plain), saada khushbu (plain, fragrant) and meettha (sweet) but you haven’t tasted the most heavenly variety of paan until you’ve had the ‘maghai’. Usually a twin paan, the maghai we had was a combination of a tiny yellow and green paan leaf, which had to be put in the mouth at the same time. The leaf is generally sweeter than your average paan and so it makes the experience all the more aromatic and fragrant. Very exotic, very addictive.

Thumbs Up!

Thumbs Up! is to India what Pakola is to Pakistan, Karachi specifically. Basically a black cola drink like any other you may be addicted to, Thumbs Up!, I feel, has the distinct undertone of chhalia, i.e. betel nut. It does belong to the cola family but it is a modified, Indian version. Quite unique, it requires some getting used to but is a must-have.

The Rava Dosa and other Paos

We’re quite accustomed to the masala dosa here in Pakistan but what you must try when in India is the Rava Dosa. While the average dosa is made from a paste of rice dough, the rava dosa has a mix of suji (semolina) and a concoction of ingredients, which make it richer and thus tastier. Originating in South India, the dosa is essentially a type of crepe, eaten with a thaali full of chutneys. You must also try the pao (bun) because of the bhaaji that comes with it. Chopped up vegetables, fried and stewed to a thick consistency, accompany the pao which is light and airy enough to soak up the spices on contact. Delish!

An Idli, Vada Breakfast

Forget cereal when you’re in Mumbai because the idli is a South Indian breakfast staple that you’ll find impossible to resist. Made from a combination of flour and daal moong, the idli is a small bun/cake that is steamed and eaten with a sambhar (coconut chutney). Also try the vada, which is essentially a fritter made from a variety of South Indian ingredients, the main being daal moong. It is very similar to our bada (as in the dahi bada) except it is eaten as a snack, with or without yoghurt and chutneys. The vada can come as a disk or in a small donut shape. All South Indian food will have an element of coconut so you may not take a liking to it if you’re not a coconut fan! Try out all these snacks and more at Badshah Snack corner in Crawford Market if you can brave the midday Mumbai crowd.

Kaju Katli

Last but not least is the sweet meat of India, the kaju katli or cashew barfi. It is the most sought out sweet and you’ll probably end up gorging on it as well as bringing it back by the kilos for eager relatives. Though the kaju katli is available at almost every halwai shop in the city, I found the variety at Brij Wasi exceptionally tasty. You may want to check it out. Next up comes Chandu Ram Halwai, who had an irresistible saffron-infused option called Kesar Kaju Katli. Expect to spend up to 900 Indian rupees per kilo and also to offend and upset anyone back home who isn’t gifted a box!