Instep rounds up the designers to watch out for in 2015

January 4, 2015

Fashion’s Rising Stars

Instep rounds up the designers to watch out for in 2015

High fashion excites us to no end, and when it comes in the form of fresh new talent, it has us practically jumping with joy. Over the past year or so, the fashion industry has nurtured some exceptional young talent that is poised to spread its wings and take flight as we enter a new year. Here’s a look at the most promising young labels to look out for:

Inaaya by Naushaba Brohi

Inaaya’s debut at Fashion Pakistan Week in March 2014 sent the fashion world into raptures; it was the kind of collection fashionstas and critics dreamt of. Designer Naushaba Brohi’s seamless marriage of Eastern craft such as rilli and ajrak and western silhouettes received unprecedented acclaim and the fact that the stylish Mrs. Clooney was photographed wearing a traditional Sindhi durri necklace by the brand a few months down the line cemented its position as an emerging powerhouse of fashion.

As a socially conscious fashion brand - Naushaba works with craftswomen in interior Sindh and converts their traditional ethnic expertise into trendy, wearable designs - Inaaya has hit upon a smart business model which, with the right kind of marketing push, can become a commercially successful venture in Pakistan and abroad. The trick is to ensure that the brand’s individualistic design ethos isn’t diluted when it comes to converting its edgy runway collections into pieces meant for mass consumption, a balance that the designer is trying to maintain, sometimes unsuccessfully.

With a retail presence in Karachi, Lahore and Islamabad at various multi-designer stores, Inaaya has plans to go global this year. Naushaba spoke to Instep about entering the retail arena in Dubai very soon. "While I can’t disclose much until I sign on the dotted line, I can tell you that this won’t be a one-off exhibit or trunk show, but a long-term association that will establish Inaaya as part of mainstream retail." The designer has just launched a formal line titled Luna with a capsule collection at Ensemble Karachi.

"I wanted to test the waters to see if there was a market for my shaadi wear and the response that we received was fabulous. The formal wear will be available nationwide come August." With a jewellery exhibit coming up soon and work already started on her fashion week collection, Naushaba has a lot on her plate and we can’t wait to for Inaaya to wow us all over again this year.

Ammara Khan

Ammara Khan has been crafting her ornate couture creations for her loyal Lahori clientele since 2002, making her runaway debut only this year at PLBW. Much like the quiet, unassuming designer herself, the collection marked a solid, no-fuss debut. While the pieces didn’t really break any new grounds in terms of technique or silhouette, there was a timeless elegance and luxe simplicity about the outfits that is bound to have many takers.

Primarily a couturier, Ammara says her love for luxurious fabrics such as Chantilly lace and expensive Swarovski crystals makes it very hard for her to translate her vision into affordable pret. Her focus remains on providing traditional luxury and wedding wear with a contemporary twist, such as the brocade jackets with fitted pants and 3D floral motifs on organza trousers one saw during her show at PLBW.

Ammara-Khan

Armed with a degree from the prestigious Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and a design ethos that marks a delicate balance between bling and elegance, Ammara has the right credentials to make it big. However, the true hallmark of a couturier is not just someone who makes beautiful clothes but someone who also has the potential to set trends and make headlines - we hope the designer does all that in the years to come if she is to truly make a mark on the fashion stratosphere.

Saira Shakira

The designer duo from Lahore formally launched their label three years ago, but it wasn’t until they made their runway debut at the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week (PSFW) in March 2014 that the fashion industry sat up and took notice. Titled Cirque du Vanite, the largely monochrome collection was fun, quirky and fearless - a sign that that the young label was willing to take risks and not just put out pretty clothes indistinguishable from what everyone else was doing.

Saira-Shakira

The label retained its edgy strain with its second outing on the ramp at the PFDC L’Oreal Bridal Week (PLBW) in October, where its bridal collection featuring intricate embroideries and interesting cuts and silhouettes was well-received.

In an industry where many a well-established designer is unable to prepare timely collections for fashion weeks, it bodes well for Saira Shakira’s future that the label managed to show consistently despite being relatively new.

Saira Faisal and Shakira Usman, both graduates of the Pakistan Institute of Fashion Design, have proven that they have the technical skill and well-defined aesthetic to wow both on the ramp and off it too. Their formals and luxury pret are finding homes in the wardrobes of Lahore’s style-savvy socialites while stars such as Mawra Hocane and Humaima Mallick have been seen endorsing the brand of late on the red carpet. The challenge for the duo, however, is to increase its nationwide visibility and make a presence felt in the retail sector.

With just one rack at the PFDC store in Lahore and no availability yet in Karachi or Islamabad, it would be a pity if the promising label were unable to realize its potential of becoming a fashion industry heavyweight. But according to Shakira, she and Saira have big plans for this year and intend to make their brand much more accessible in 2015. "We are looking to explore the Karachi market and will hopefully stock there soon. Right now, we are excited because we are making our debut in India at the PFDC Boulevard store in Delhi. We are also launching prints this year, for both winter and summer in the form of stitched tunics and unstitched fabric. And of course, we intend to remain consistent at fashion weeks."

Madiha Raza

Perhaps the most exciting debut of the year was that of Madiha Raza, the winner of the Maybelline NY Millennial Fashion 2014 showcase, Fashion Pakistan’s launch-pad for upcoming designers.

5_madiha_raza

Madiha’s collection titled Flight of Birds soared on the ramp given its creativity and attention to detail. The young designer showed a superb grasp over technique and structure, with everything from digital prints, laser cut patterns and 3D textures combining effortlessly into artistic pieces. The quirky and vibrant accessories, which included handbags and shoes, were also a hit.

The designer, who cites Maheen Khan as her mentor, already has a brand called Handmade that she launched soon after graduating from the Indus Valley School of Arts and Architecture in 2009. Having produced bags for Tapu Javeri and Deepak Perwani, Madiha is no stranger to high fashion, a fact that was apparent in her masterful debut. As the winner of the Millennial showcase, she has won a slot at Fashion Pakistan Week Spring/Summer 2015, scheduled to be held in March and there are high hopes pinned on her second runway outing. Fashion has a bright new star in the horizon and we can’t wait to see what designs she has on us in the future.

Mahgul

Mahgul Rashid first arrived on the scene in 2013 under the tutelage of her grandmother, acclaimed couturier Nasreen Sheikh. Her label, Mahgul for Nasreen Sheikh, debuted at PSFW to critical acclaim and soon became known for its innovative and cutting-edge design philosophy. This year saw the brand branch out on its own with a capsule bridal collection at PLBW in October, retaining the quirky sensibility that has made its pret and luxury pret the designs of choice for fashion-forward fashionistas.

Mahgul

Explaining why the brand showed only a capsule despite having the experience and expertise to put out a full collection, Mahgul explained, "Since this was our first foray into bridal wear, we thought a limited-piece capsule collection was quite apt. We are ready to show a full collection at the upcoming fashion week provided that we are given a spot."

While Mahgul’s creations are red-carpet favourites, the brand has been criticized for not being commercially accessible, an accusation that the designer says leaves her quite puzzled. "We have a studio in Gulberg, Lahore for customized orders and we have been stocking from the get go at Ensemble, PFDC and Fashion Pakistan Lounge in Lahore as well as Ensemble in Karachi," she explained.

But she is also quick to admit that more than commercial success, it is the fulfillment of her artistic vision that drives her. "The brand ‘Mahgul’ is known for its artistic, beautiful garments; I don’t design keeping a particular demographic in mind or to sell. Our clothes stay true to my creative aesthetic; if they do well commercially, that’s just an added bonus."

With an e-store launching soon and plans to make its gorgeous accessories that debuted at PLBW available for retail online and at their studio, the brand is poised to go from strength to strength in the new year.

Instep rounds up the designers to watch out for in 2015