Leather and the Art of Restraint

April 20, 2025

At Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025 show, Hermès presented a masterclass in restraint and elegance.

Leather and the Art of Restraint


A

n inspired declaration of freedom echoed throughout the hall as Hermès International’s creative director Nadège Vanhée, unveiled her vision at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025 show. “It’s about being assertive. It’s about strength. About being sexy and sophisticated—and just owning it,” she stated.

Hosted at the Garde Républicaine, the grand stables of Paris’s police force, the fashion brand constructed a set with rounded walls draped in brown felt. Presenting on a dirt-covered catwalk, the theme was “leather dandy.”

The energy was electric—as the refined collection moved fluidly across the Hermès runway, with models marching confidently in equestrian heels and Oxford-inspired creations. This collection marked Vanhée’s masterpiece as she celebrated ten years with the fashion house.

Leather and the Art of Restraint

Hermès honoured the exquisitely crafted leather with an equestrian-inspired theme. Her inspiration was surprisingly simple: “Initially, it was felt—a good friend and a support to the leather. And the brogue.”

The femininity never crossed into excess; instead, its self-control was shaped by minimalist boundaries that reflected control, effortless beauty, and an undeniable charm—qualities that made the collection even more powerful. Vanhée’s skill also extended to fashion’s practical aesthetic—her silhouettes were beautifully cut yet never constricting, showcasing her creativity and ability to move beyond the trendy oversized look. Here’s a look at some of the pieces from the collection.

Leather and the Art of Restraint

A cropped, black leather-trimmed denim jacket was paired with tailored charcoal-grey trousers. A black handbag and pointed-toe boots finished the look.

A sophisticated dark-grey leather jacket was layered over a fluid, fitted top and a pleated mini skirt. Black tights and pointed-toe shoes completed the ensemble.

A black leather jacket and pants were combined with a high-neck top and ankle boots. The outfit struck a balance between sophisticated and edgy.

A beige knit top was worn with a matching leather vest and a high-waisted skirt featuring lacing details. Burgundy knee-high boots added a pop of colour.

A contemporary cream-coloured coat with an asymmetrical, flowing
silhouette featured gold-toned buttons and a high, sculpted collar.

A model presented a refined look with a longline coat and wide-leg
trousers in a vibrant lime-green hue.

Dark, textured knitwear with a cape-like, cascading shape served as the focal point. Grey trousers and a small, structured bag provided subtle contrast.

A structured black leather coat, accented with a draped scarf and cinched waist belt, was paired with pointed-toe boots.

A model strode confidently in a contemporary grey coat with black leather panels, worn over a coordinating top and pants. The overall effect was
both stylish and practical.

Photo courtesy: Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Leather and the Art of Restraint