limate change, rising temperatures, droughts and extreme weather conditions are significantly impacting cotton production, the primary raw material for Pakistan’s textile industry.

Recognising these challenges, the University of Agriculture, Faisalabad, initiated research on industrial hemp in 2021 in collaboration with US Denim Mills, Lahore, a manufacturer and exporter of denim jeans.

After completing a four-year research project on hemp, University of Agriculture, Faisalabad, in partnership with the Industrial and Medicinal Hemp Foundation (IMHF), hosted an International Workshop and Exhibition on the Industrial Hemp Value Chain in January 2025.

Both local and international experts emphasised the urgent need to introduce industrial hemp as a cash crop in Pakistan to support the textile industry and unlock its estimated $4 billion annual economic potential for a greener and more sustainable future.

Dr Asad Farooq, chairman of the Department of Fibre and Textile Technology at the UAF and head of the hemp research team, shared insights into the project with The News on Sunday. He said his research had focused on extracting fibre from hemp plants to manufacture fabric, including denim jeans, jackets and other products.

“As part of this research, we have experimented with various hemp strains found in Pakistan and successfully developed non-toxic hemp seeds suitable for large-scale cultivation and textile use,” said Dr Asad.

During the project, hemp plants from 16 regions across Pakistan were analysed to determine their THC (tetrahydrocannabinol) levels.

“Hemp strains with a THC level below 0.3 per cent are classified as non-toxic,” he said. Hemp and marijuana are the same plant. The major difference is that hemp is a mixture of male and female cannabis plants. Its flowers produce less than 0.3 percent THC. Hemp plants also tend to be taller and contain more fibre in their stalks. For this reason, hemp plants are often used to make textiles.

Dr Asad’s research identified three non-toxic hemp varieties, which were then processed to develop a fibre extraction and softening technology compatible with Pakistan’s spinning industry.

“Currently, Pakistan imports hemp from China. It is expensive and naturally coarse, making it difficult to produce high-quality, soft fabrics. Our goal was to create a locally sourced, superior-quality hemp fibre that is both soft and durable, making Pakistani hemp textiles globally competitive,” Dr Asad said.

The Department of Fibre and Textile Technology has developed a technology in which hemp stalks undergo decortication to separate the bark. The fibre undergoes chemical processing and cottonisation, which can be both chemical-based and mechanical-based.

“Our innovative method allows hemp fibre to blend seamlessly with cotton, producing soft, high-quality fabrics with enhanced durability,” he added.

The project successfully harvested hemp, processed it into cottonised fibre, spun it into yarn and produced fabric. These hemp-based textiles were then transformed into garments under the guidance of international designers.

The Kingpins Show, the world’s premier denim trade event, is held annually in New York and Amsterdam. Last year, at the Amsterdam edition, US Denim Mills showcased hemp-based apparel developed in partnership with the UAF. It received an overwhelmingly positive response.

According to Irfan Nazir, CEO of US Denim Mills’ Fabric Vertical, the significance of this project cannot be fully understood without considering the circumstances under which it was undertaken.

“As part of this research, we have experimented with various hemp strains found in Pakistan and successfully developed non-toxic hemp seeds suitable for large-scale cultivation and textile use,” said Dr Asad. 

“The devastation caused by climate change is not only threatening lives but also poses serious risks to businesses. The fashion industry is no exception. Over the past few years, we have faced significant production challenges,” he said.

He said that the decline in cotton yields due to climate change had disrupted the industry’s supply chain, creating a gap between demand and supply.

“Recognising these challenges, US Denim collaborated with the University of Agriculture, Faisalabad, to explore alternative natural fibres. We conducted research on several options and hemp emerged as a promising choice. Looking back on the past four years, I can confidently say that our research team has done an outstanding job,” he said.

He said that the fabric produced from a blend of hemp and cotton fibres by US Denim was gaining immense popularity in the international fashion industry. “The demand for this fabric is exceptionally high. We are eagerly waiting for the hemp cultivation licensing process to commence so that we can lead the textile industry towards a more sustainable future,” he said.

It is important to note that Government of Pakistan issued an ordinance for hemp cultivation in February 2024. Later, the law was passed as The Cannabis Control and Regulatory Authority Bill, 2024, by both the National Assembly and Senate in September 2024.

Under this law, a Hemp Authority was established to regulate the cultivation of cannabis plant, extraction, refining, manufacturing and sale of derivatives of the plant for medicinal and industrial use. However, due to the absence of a director general, the authority is yet to become operational. No cultivation licenses have been issued.

Dr Asad said that several major textile companies had expressed interest in hemp cultivation. “US Denim has already allocated 4,000 acres of land for this purpose. We are waiting for the licensing process to begin,” he said.

He said the University of Agriculture, Faisalabad, had developed the necessary technology to process hemp into industry-ready fibre. “We have the technology, we have non-toxic seeds and we are prepared to upscale hemp production,” he said.

Despite hemp’s potential, Dr Asad acknowledged that cotton remains the industry standard due to its unique qualities. However, cotton cultivation comes with its challenges such as high water consumption and high fertiliser and pesticide use, whereas hemp requires significantly less resources.

“Hemp not only requires less water but also improves soil fertility. Additionally, it has a short growth cycle, maturing in 90 to 100 days, allowing for two harvests per year. Given the climate crisis, hemp presents a highly viable crop option,” he said.

“Hemp fetches nearly double the price of cotton in the global market. Its per-acre fiber yield is over twice that of cotton. This makes it a highly lucrative option for farmers, licensing being the only bottleneck slowing its adoption.”

Another advantage of hemp is its natural antibacterial properties. “In sustainable textile production, this is a game-changer. Traditionally, fabrics are treated with chemical-based antibacterial finishes, which are not environment friendly. Also they lose their effectiveness over time whereas hemp’s antibacterial properties are inherent and long-lasting,” Dr Asad said.

Pakistan’s Potohar region and Northern Areas already have wild-growing hemp. This makes these regions ideal for its commercial cultivation. “Faisalabad’s climate differs from Potohar’s. However, our trials at the university have shown excellent results,” he said.

He added that while natural rainfall is sufficient for hemp growth in Potohar, in Faisalabad, farmers may need to provide additional irrigation.

“Climate is not a major barrier. However, for optimal germination, temperatures should not be excessively high at the time of planting,” he noted.

Dr Asad stressed the urgency of initiating hemp cultivation in Pakistan. “By growing hemp locally, the textile industry can access high-quality fibre at a lower cost, reducing reliance on expensive imports. Moreover, Pakistan can tap into the booming global market for sustainable textiles,” he said. “This is a golden opportunity for Pakistan to position itself as a global leader in sustainable textiles,” he added.

The writer has been associated with journalism for the past decade. He tweets @naeemahmad876