Of polysemous spaces

June 11, 2023

Not many know today that Hyder Chowk pays homage to the struggle of peasant farmers

Posters and flyers festooned overhead have marred the charm of this politically significant landmark.
Posters and flyers festooned overhead have marred the charm of this politically significant landmark.


N

ot very long ago, Hyder Chowk – a bustling intersection located in the heart of Hyderabad city echoed with political slogans, chants and impassioned speeches the words of which city-dwellers would ardently hang on to.

These days, save for some, most of the young people in the city pass by the historic landmark with an air of nonchalance as if it were just another crossing. That is because the younger generation is not aware of the rich history of this chowk.

It is not as if Hyder Chowk is no more than a relic. The chowk, located in Garri Khata area, is still functional. The public space has preserved traces of the vibrancy that it is fondly remembered for.

To all appearances, not much has changed. Like the old days, Hyder Chowk, with its constant flurry of movement, vibrant markets and a diverse array of shops, captures the essence of the second largest city of the province.

The citizens say the chowk becomes pleasantly cool in the evening after the scorching sun sets. After daylight hours, they often gather near the intersection to share gossip, enjoy chai and play with their children.

Hyder Chowk also serves as a platform for religious activities and rallies, with a notable gathering during Muharram, the first month of the Islamic calendar.

Public spaces, like poly-semantic words, hold multiple meanings. Over time, the meanings morph and evolve, giving way to disparate worlds of collective and individual experiences.

Much like meaning, the utility of such spaces, if they endure, also shifts with time. This is reflected in both the affect imbibed by the public space itself and the way people take up space and choose to interact with it.

Hyder Chowk is still a cardinal hub of activity but it is on the verge of losing its historic charm. High-rise buildings and noise from traffic and hawkers are threatening the political legacy of this chowk.

To make matters (and the optics) worse, the now-congested intersection is also blighted by layers of faded posters advertising various products, political candidates and local events.

This fate is wholly undeserved. The historic monument that once served as a hub of political and social activities is still of utility to the citizens.

In the past, people from various walks of life, including workers from various political parties, used to gather at this site to stage protests and assert their rights in front of those in authority.

Hyder Chowk got its name from Hyder Bux Jatoi, a prominent figure in the Sindh Hari Tehreek. Jatoi, known as Baba-i-Sindh, was a revolutionary leader who mobilised and empowered the peasant farmers of Sindh.

Jatoi, a career civil servant, had once served as a commissioner. However, he had resigned after witnessing firsthand the plight of marginalised farmers. He had then dedicated himself to championing their cause, fiercely opposing the exploitation inflicted on them by feudal lords and landowners. His unwavering commitment made him a resounding and radical voice for the marginalised communities in Sindh.

Given its political significance and central location, Hyder Chowk became a hub for various political parties such as the Hari Committee, the National Awami Party and Sindhi Awami Tahreek. These political groups established their offices near the landmark.

Hyder Chowk is a noisy, congested commercial hub during daylight hours.
Hyder Chowk is a noisy, congested commercial hub during daylight hours.


High-rise buildings and noise from traffic and hawkers are threatening the political legacy of this chowk. To make matters (and optics) worse, the now-congested intersection is blighted by layers of faded posters advertising various products, political candidates and local events. The deterioration of old buildings is also to blame for degradation of the historic charm of this chowk.

Numerous trade unions, including the Pakistan Workers’ Federation, also set up their offices in this area. Offices of the Sindh Peoples Labour Federation and student organisations like the Sindh National Students Federation were also situated here. This strategic choice was influenced by the availability of ample space and the proximity to the railway station and bus stand.

Over time, the name of the chowk underwent several changes. Initially known as Fawaara Chowk due to the presence of a fountain, it later became known as Gol Park when a park was laid in its place. Political parties would organise speeches and events in this park.

The park was eventually transformed into a bus stand, serving as a transportation hub for buses running between Mirpurkhas and Hyderabad.

After that, the Hyderabad Municipal Corporation installed a sculpture of praying hands, and the bus stand came to be known as Dua Chowk.

Despite these developments, the chowk is most commonly referred to as Hyder Chowk by the residents of the city and its suburbs because of its historic association with Comrade Hyder Bux Jatoi, who once lived in the area.

As time passed, the decline of railways and the relocation of the bus stand resulted in a shift of focus away from the two main connecting roads, Station Road and Risala Road.

Today, due to its central location, Hyder Chowk still serves as a main centre for numerous aspects of daily life and continues to have a vital role for the community.

The intersection serves as a gathering place for scholars, educators, students and intellectuals, who can often be seen browsing through a variety of old and new books available in the area. The books range from academic to critical works.

It continues to play a crucial role in fostering an interest in learning. Currently, the chowk is occupied by bookshops such as City Book Depot and Mehran Book Centre, as well as several photo labs and key-makers’ kiosks.

It is surrounded by several significant buildings, including courts, the Hyderabad Press Club, the Deputy Commissioner’s House, Dr NA Baloch Model School and the offices of various media houses.

People also head to the area for repair of motor vehicle as it hosts a prominent automobile market where both car owners and users of public transportation can get their vehicles serviced.

It is a significant junction, connecting various routes to locations such as the Model School, Gul Centre Shopping Mall, Resham Bazaar, Garri Khata, Nazeer Hussain Flyover, Railway Station, Gol Building and Khokhar Mohalla.

Whether it is the energetic street life, the variety of goods available for purchase, or its prime location due to the convergence of multiple roads Hyder Chowk embodies the vibrant pulse of this historic city, making it a must-visit destination for both locals and tourists.

However, pedestrians crossing this chowk frequently express dismay at visual impact of by the various advertisements. Many feel that such actions not only mar the beauty of the historical place but also lower its value as a monument.

The deterioration and degradation of old buildings is also to blame for the decline in the importance of the chowk, which in spite of all this, continues to serve the citizens as a place to relax and re-imagine their city.

The district administration will do well to take action and preserve this chowk. They should consider developing it into a cultural hub retaining some glimpses of its glorious past.

Such a regeneration effort can serve as an inspiration for marginalised communities not only in the nearby areas but also some distance from it, reminding them of their heritage and fostering a sense of pride. By safeguarding and promoting the historical and cultural significance of Hyder Chowk, its legacy can be preserved for future generations to appreciate.


The writer is an assistant director in the Election Commission of Pakistan. He can be reached on Twitter @Nabeell_Abro

Of polysemous spaces