‘I too will go to Jhelum’: Jhelum and Alexander! Of course you’ve heard it all.

It may have been Alexanders’ horses name; a hoofmark in a concoction of ancient Greek words; cool waters....and surely you know that Alexander aka Sikander e Azam was a pious Muslim who defeated a Hindu Raja Porus? And if you haven’t heard it all, just ask any old local and you will have the entire ancient lay of the land spread out like a feast before your unbelievable ears!

In neighboring Mirpur city there was a popular taunt, if you seemed to want more than you deserved ‘na nak, na naasan - te mein vi Jhelum jaasan!’ (you nobody - with neither a good nose nor nostrils ..and you also want to go to Jhelum!’ This has been my favourite description of the city that people aspired to go to. Downtown LA.

Of the many times we crossed Jhelum when the Motorway wasn’t even a twinkle in anyone’s eye; this was just a halfway stop to destination Pindi. Lunch or tea at a dhaba or a discreet ‘ relief’ behind your car away from the main GT road. That’s all Jhelum was.

Until several years later when working at the Worldwide Fund for Nature (WWF) an international group of world class conservationists arrived to hold workshops for locals in the Kallar Kahar area where a rare migratory ring necked duck would arrive to spend winters at the Jhallar, Khabbeki and Sakesar lakes. And finally, then, the ultimate richness of the region dawned on me. Fortunately a few years later my husband (a bureaucrat) was posted in Jhelum and his busy schedules allowed me to travel the entire district on my own; with a driver as my guide and my own curiosity, that is still trying to kill me.

Readers can find details of Jhelum’s topography, history and heritage in Salman Rashid’s excellent book Jhelum City of the Vitasta; however I will take you through my favourite 2 day recent trip only.

First stop: the mile long Railway Bridge, made in 1872, with steel brought in from Birkenhead in Britain, but assembled at the Railway Bridge Workshop in Jhelum. Earlier days saw a proliferation of ferries plying the river crossing.

A heartbreakingly cute mosque, Gurdwara and Mandir would open onto the river, and one of my favourite sights was the washing spread out on the river banks to dry. Buffaloes hoofmarks interspersed the scene, as they must have had their early morning bath and drink from the inviting Jhelum waters.

A short distance away an impressive St Johns Church (consecrated by the Bishop of Madras in 1857). No doubt it must have had very broad paths leading up to it, where British saabs with their memsaabs rode up in their carriages for Sunday sermons. Maybe picnics were laid out too ...OK OK I digress; seemed like such an idyllic scene! The Mutiny must have ruined the raj picnics, I’m sure.

A recent trip to Jhelum shattered quite a bit of my romantic memories. Now there is a new bridge flanked by a McDonalds, a KFC, OPTP and Subway; which I’m sure hold great appeal for Jhelumites now! Of course the dhabas flourish alongside these foreign food chains as well.

A beautiful Riverview Golf Course is in full swing on the river bank. As is a children’s amusement park. Unfortunately the old mosque, gurdwara and mandir are blocked off for now as our ubiquitous Kamran Lashari is working his magic to make them tourist worthy.

Jhelum is surrounded by amazing places to visit which the traveler will find most enlightening.

The Rohtas Fort was commissioned by Sher Shah Suri in 1541 after the defeat of Mughal emperor Humayun. This was declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO in 1997. Well cared for now, receiving scores of tourist daily and also offering live in facilities by the Tourism Department, Rohtas Fort has finally found its rightful place.

Khewra Salt Mines is the worlds second largest and oldest salt mine. Excellent tourist facilities are available and if you haven’t yet visited the place, you just have to. If this was in the US of A, I’m sure entry would have been at least 50 dollars (or more). Sooo good!!

Tilla Jogian should interest you, if for no other reason, this is where the forlorn Ranjha wandered around heartbroken when Heer seemingly jilted him. Also this is where the routed Raja Porus’ elephant fled uphill to seek divine help for its master. On its peak stands a monastery named after Gorakh Nath the legendary founder of the oldest religious institution in North India. Later it was named after his prominent disciple Balnath. This former retreat of Jogis has magnificent views and remains of a Vedic era monastery.

Recently the Tilla area has been declared a National Nature Reserve to protect wildlife and plants.

Katas Raj Temple Complex is situated amongst beautiful surroundings. I includes seven temples, remains of an old stupa, a few medieval sanctuaries and havelis scattered around a lake considered sacred by Hindus. This place preserves at least 1500 years worth of history ranging from the Buddhist to the British era.

— Durdana Ali Malik