Reviving the magic - qissa khuwani tradition
Two things tickled me when I first saw the invite: “experience the authentic Peshawari food, prepared by expert chefs especially flown in from Peshawar” and that “the ambiance will have [traditional] elements”. Who can say ‘no’ to that? When a ticket to spend a Friday night includes enjoying the special delicacies like chapli kebab in the buffet dinner or sipping Peshawari chai, sitting on a char pai, your back against those bolster pillows (aka gao-takkiya), as you let your imagination drift listening to the songs and music, and watching the lamp flicker in the wind seems perfect as anything, who wouldn’t have done anything to bribe their younger brother to accompany them? I would; in fact, I did!
My obsession with punctuality meant that we were the few attendees who chose to be at the venue at 7:30 p.m. sharp on January 29. (In hindsight, whoever in Karachi could dream of having their dinner at 7 p.m?) Organised by the poolside, the occasion had a romantic touch; the light breeze caressing us and the stars shining above were cues the stage was all set for this ‘Bazaar of Storytellers’ (Qissa Khuwani) to commence.
Unfortunately, the inauguration was delayed. It did give me time to assemble the details in order though. “The three-day gala, held from January 29 to January 31 2016, is one of the three events planned for this quarter,” I was told by their management. “Inspired by the historic Qissa Khuwani Bazaar in Peshawar, where traders from various ethnicities used to discuss their stories over a cup of kava at the market’s tea houses, it’s the second time on a yearly-basis that the hotel is hosting this event, with the aim to cater to the Pathan community who have a hard time finding good, authentic cuisine to remind them of what’s native to their hometown.” But then it was also open to guests so it would be more prudent to say the event literally invited ‘everyone [who wished] to experience Pakistan’s early history.’
“The chefs – Haji Anaar Gul, Haji Anzar Gul, Haji Shafiullah – preparing this buffet dinner belong to Namak Mandi, Peshawar.” I was assured that dishes like Lamb Chops, Peshawari Pullao (Kabuli Style), and Kandhari Nan were not messed with in any way. Also knowing that these chefs were masters in the art, cooking the same dishes since generations, I needed to taste only to know why exactly they were so popular back home.
I savoured every bit of food that I tasted. Had it been humanly possible to have gone to an essentially Peshawari cuisine and not tried the traditional, steaming Peshawari kahwa from the teeny tiny pyalay it was offered in, I might have bid adieu. It was not, but I do have to say that even as it tasted good, luckily it’s not going to be my preference over the local dhabay ki doodhpatti (associated with Pathans here).
Where in olden days the Qissa Khuwani Bazaar was said to be THE hotspot to while away time, the incentive becomes the perfect opportunity for families and connoisseurs to connect and bond over Peshawari cuisine. With hosts exuding similar impression from the garbs they were dressed in and the colourful, eclectic shops of brass, marble, and wood souvenirs; tribal trinkets; and a cobbler, the event was enchanting in its own right, in Karachi and not KPK, something I’d take note to tell my Pathan friend about the next time she’s in town. She wouldn’t mind the 1995+tax/person bill in exchange to this variety.