Lahore
The PFDC L’Oreal Bridal Week Day 3 was somewhat of a mixed bag as far as the runway fashion is concerned but given that it was the last chance for fashionistas to make a mark on the red carpet, they made sure they brought their A-game to the final day. PFDC Spokesperson Sara Shahid kept it minimal and edgy in an all-white structured pants and tunic combo, cinched at the waist with a wide leather belt and paired with statement red heels. Saris made a welcome appearance, as sported by Maheen Kardar Ali who opted for a luxe saffron yellow silk number and Hadiqa Kiyani, in white.
The petite and pretty Juggan Kazim chose embroidered blue trousers from The House of Kamiar Rokni’s acclaimed Alchemy, and paired them with a simple white button-down shirt for a classic look. JPNA leading lady Aisha Khan, in town for her film’s promotions, made a stopover at the Faletteti’s to support fellow cast members, Mehwish Hayat and Humayun Saeed, who turned showstoppers for Nomi Ansari. She made a delectable statement in an ice-cream print dress from Shehla Chatoor’s Magnum Collection.
Here’s a breakdown of the six collections that brought an end to the three-day bridal showcase:
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Nomi Ansari
Like the fragrance it’s named after, Nomi Ansari’s Oudh was a sweet treat – a whiff of flirty and feminine glamour. While the silhouette remained unchanged from last year, focusing primarily on lehngas, Nomi used his skill with the colour palette to create a range of ensembles in striking visual combinations. The cholis got an update to sequined bra-lets, off-shoulder blouses and embellished bustiers; and the sparkly net dupattas complemented the riot of colours perfectly. The menswear featured vibrant sherwanis, short jackets and embellished shawls accessorized with embroidered footwear that is sure to make a statement this wedding season. Overall, it was a fun, young and girly collection that impressed with its immaculate tailoring and finish.
Shamaeel Ansari
Shamaeel’s Absolute Orientalism got the last day of the bridal week off to a resoundingly dramatic start. The designer’s signature opulent aesthetic was on full display, as evidenced by the use of luxe fabrics such as velvet and brocade, gold embroidery, tassels and rich layering. From deconstructed capes to regal-looking jackets fit for a king to printed skirts lined with handcrafted borders, there were myriad elements that went into the collection, sometimes all in one outfit, and it is a mark of Shamaeel’s mastery as a couturier that she made it all come together in one cohesive, breathtaking whole. Whether it were the opening outfits in muted tones of caramel worked in elegant white applique or the theatrical red finale bridal, the designer stuck to her distinct sensibility and wowed with her understanding of historical motifs, garment construction and haute couture that makes an impact.
HSY
No one puts up a show like HSY and it’s no surprise that the inimitable designer is the one chosen year after year to stage PLBW’s grand finale. This year, the HSY collection took a break from its signature reds and jewel colours to experiment with a palette of silver, grey and ivory and while that was a welcome change, the collection fell short on the drama and grandeur that are the hallmarks of the designer’s work. The indiscriminate use of crystals and sequins pulled down the overall aesthetics of the ensembles.
Ammara Khan
Ammara Khan’s Memoirs from a Moonlit Garden was reminiscent of her blingy debut collection from last year but while the latter showed a spark on ingenuity, this one veered too much towards a predictable silhouette and colour palette to leave a favourable impression. The butterfly and serpent motifs could have been pretty but suffered from too literal an interpretation on the theme. Creatively, it seems the designer hasn’t moved beyond her love for crystals to develop much of a signature style and without one, it’s impossible to move an audience during a couture show.
Saira Shakira
With Seeking Paradise, designer duo Saira Shakira proved yet again that they aren’t afraid to take risks and give bridal fashion an adventurous spin. When many designers far more experienced than them refuse to budge from their comfort zones, this comes as a refreshing approach. The current collection featured an interesting palette of rose pink, gold and grey graduating into darker reds and greens. Traditional lehngas were replaced by wide-legged pants and the designer’s signature androgynous collars and neck-ties made a welcome appearance alongside feminine floral motifs and intricate dabka and naqshi work. Saira Shakira have set their own path with their unique aesthetic, what the brand now needs to focus on is finishing and finesse, which remained a weak point.
Asifa Nabeel
The label is known for its wearable wedding wear that appeals to a large market in their hometown, Lahore. They’ve had a solid ramp presence at the PFDC platform over the years and while their past collections may not have been particularly fashion-forward, they have remained commercially viable. Which is why this year’s Venetian Dreams proved to be a disappointment. It started off on a good note, with a black lehnga worn by Amna Babar that broke the monotony of the light colour palette that has ruled the ramp this PLBW, but it never really took off from there. The collection lacked cohesion, the inclusion of the printed fabric did not work and the colour palette seemed off.