The stylish, modern handbag sitting on the counter of the stall, part of the exhibition in Larkana, Sindh, was completely unexpected. This carefully crafted bag was both modern and sturdy. With changing styles and fashions today, one could easily see this beautiful handbag paired with any outfit.
What was even more fascinating was that the bag was made from biodegradable and environmentally friendly material - these were banana bags.
“This bag is made from the banana plant,” informed the smiling Anila Gaji, a resident of Dero Khas, Larkana, Sindh, sending a ripple of amazement through the small group examining the bag. “We also make fabric and other products from this natural fibre. Initially, we used to weave half a metre of banana cloth per day. Now, as our expertise has improved, we weave about one metre per day. We only make products on demand.”
Anila added, “Several women from my village and others attended a workshop where we were taught to make natural, everyday products.”
Anila is one of thousands of women in Sindh who have been able to supplement their family income by setting up businesses with the help of interest-free loans given by the Sindh Rural Support Organisation (SRSO), a non-profit organisation supported by the Sindh Government.
The SRSO has been working on major poverty-driven, women-led social mobilisation programmes to alleviate poverty in different segments of society. Through its poverty reduction programme, SRSO has implemented the People’s Poverty Reduction Programme (PPRP) through union councils based in different districts.
“So far, through the PPRP, SRSO has supported about 150,000 households - which means hundreds of thousands of people,” says SRSO CEO, Muhammad Zulfiqar Dittal Kalhoro. “The programme is women-specific because by empowering women, we can bring change to the community. Through SRSO, women have been given interest-free loans and they have gone on to add value to their lives. Some have invested in creating businesses, buying cattle or poultry, or improving their homes to build better lives for their families,” explains Kalhoro.
“Not everyone is given the interest-free loan; each applicant must go through a rigorous process. First, SRSO conducts a Poverty Scorecard Survey (PSC) of the community in different union councils or districts. The PSC uses simple, objective questions about household assets to estimate a household’s poverty level - the higher the score, the less likely they are to be eligible for the loan,” elaborates Kalhoro.
Kalhoro’s plan to focus on women is a smart move, as it improves the living standards of entire families. Women are aware of the necessities that can help improve the lives of their family members, and this, in turn, helps bring change to other people’s lives. However, the money is not given to women as a gift; they can only receive loans if they are found eligible.
SRSO aims to financially empower women and their families - not by simply donating money. The idea is that when women apply for a loan, they usually already know how the amount will be used. Additionally, the responsibility of repaying the loan motivates them to work harder.
Anila applied for a PKR 500,000 interest-free loan after scoring low on the PSC - qualifying among thousands of applicants. The loan helped her strengthen her existing business. Anila attended various training workshops and exhibitions organised by SRSO in cities like Karachi and Islamabad.
“I affiliated with SRSO in 2003. At the time, I was only focused on making khes (a traditionally hand-woven, thick cotton fabric used as a versatile item, including a blanket,
bed covering, shawl or mat)
and shawls, but attending
these workshops really helped me improve my skills,” elucidates Anila.
“It was at one of SRSO’s workshops that I received training in banana weaving and learned to use banana thread to make products. Initially, I was only able to weave half a metre of cloth from banana thread per day, but now I can weave one metre of cloth per day. Over time, my skills have improved so much that SRSO now takes me to other villages to train women in banana weaving,” she says proudly.
Manufacturing banana products is a long process, especially since customised items take more time, as they must be made with specific features in mind. “I get the banana thread from Khairpur and make cloth on the khadi (loom). I make bags and pouches when SRSO asks me to; that is an on-demand product. SRSO’s loan really helped me set up this business, and now except for the thread, I pay all my own expenses, such as my helper’s salary and equipment repairs,” shares Anila.
Banana is a very popular berry despite the common belief that it is a fruit. Bananas usually grow in hot, humid and tropical regions. The banana tree is not a tree but an herbaceous plant (herb) with a pseudo stem (trunk-like). This is a fleshy ‘trunk’ made of leaves tightly wrapped around, giving the plant a layered look.
Globally, the average per-capita banana consumption is estimated at around 17 kg per person per year. In some places, it is a snack or fruit; in others, it’s a staple food item, especially in tropical and subtropical areas, where it is also part of the main course.
This plant has many interesting aspects that many people don’t know, despite the widespread consumption of bananas. For example, each trunk dies naturally after it produces fruit – which happens only once in its lifetime. The dead trunk is naturally replaced by new shoots, which continue to bear fruit.
However, over the years, the dead trunk is not left to decompose but is recycled and used to make banana thread. Usually, farmers burn the ‘waste’ of the dead trunk, which not only pollutes the air but also results in the loss of valuable raw material. However, they have no other way to clear their land for the next crop.
History reveals that banana has been used for various purposes for thousands of years. In fact, there is evidence that bananas have been used for textiles in Southeast Asia and India since the 13th century, as well as for medicine, wrapping, and crafts in Sri Lanka.
Banana products are used in packaging films, as biodegradable sanitary pads, and in textiles. Banana fibre, also called banana silk or musa fibre, is used for making children's clothing due to its softness, strength, breathability (similar to cotton) and its anti-bacterial quality, which helps keep children healthy.
It is also used to make scarves, hats, accessories, home décor, gloves and paper - all of which are biodegradable and environmentally friendly. Banana fibre is said to be at least five times stronger than cotton and retains warmth in winter.
Apart from the usual textile products, in certain countries, banana fibre is also blended with cotton, silk or other natural fibres. Its natural lustre and good tensile strength allow it to drape nicely when blended and processed properly.
This fibre is used by handloom communities in South and Southeast Asia and could be a worthwhile investment for the textile industry in Pakistan.
Other items made from banana fibre include ropes and paper produced from the stems and leaves - offering an eco-friendly alternative to the more toxic materials currently used for everyday products.
The high-quality fibre makes banana products expensive, and as Anila mentions, she only produces banana fibre products when there is an order.
The process to make this fibre begins with the collection of banana stems after the banana fruit is harvested. After the stems are collected, they are stripped into smaller sections manually or with the help of a mechanical cutter. Layers of the banana stem - each pseudo-stem - are peeled to separate the outer and inner layers. The outer layers are stronger and more fibrous, while the inner ones are softer and used for finer products. The strips are then washed to remove dirt and excess sap before processing.
Following the cleaning phase, the fibre is extracted, which can be done manually - though it is time-consuming - and is therefore often done mechanically to save time and increase production. The extracted raw fibre is moist, so it is washed in clean water and then dried, leaving behind a light, glossy fibre with a natural sheen similar to silk.
The dried fibre can be stiff and coarse and has to go through another round of softening by soaking it in water or in chemicals so that it can be used for spinning. Once softened, the fibre is combed to remove short or uneven strands which improves the texture and appearance of the final yarn.
The fibre can then be spun into yarn using hand spinning wheels or industrial spinning machines. This is the stage where the yarn is blended with other natural fibres like cotton, jute, or silk and then dyed, bleached, or polished to improve its quality and finishing.
According to Anila, this is a good business as it allows her to earn more, but there is not a huge demand for banana products, and she cannot sustain herself or anyone who works for her to continue producing them.
It would be a good idea for the government to consider investing in the improvement of the banana industry. SRSO is doing its part by funding and training women entrepreneurs to become financially stronger, and in doing so, is offering alternative businesses like the banana thread business. Increasing production would not only support the mass production of environmentally friendly products but also provide employment in this sector.
The government should invest in the banana industry to increase the production of natural fibres and promote biodegradable products that can replace harmful and toxic materials used in making bottles and other plastic products.
The model of providing interest-free loans, like SRSO is doing, can encourage entrepreneurs - especially women like Anila - to work with farmers or harvest banana tree waste and extract the fibres themselves. By providing funding, training, and equipment, including mechanical spindles, wheels, looms and specialised knitting machines to women in different rural areas, Pakistan can establish an environmentally friendly niche banana fibre industry and simultaneously provide employment to thousands of people, especially women, across the country.
The writer is a senior journalist with focus on gender justice. She can be reached at ljnaqvi909gmail.com