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| ‘Fruit of the loom’ exhibition coming to town |
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Sunday, February 08, 2009
Ishrat Hyatt
Islamabad
Here is good news for those who prefer hand woven fabrics and want to support traditional methods of production.
The National Institute of Folk and Traditional Heritage (Lok Virsa) is organising an exhibition titled, ‘Tana Bana’ featuring the country’s master artisans from remote regions of Pakistan, who will demonstrate their expertise on the specialised craft of weaving. About 32 ‘Khaddis’ (handlooms) will showcase the traditional art of weaving linen, articles of clothing and apparel for a period of eight days from next Saturday (February 14), so mark the dates in your calendar!
Weaving is not only a craft but a mystic tradition associated with Sufis who used it to practice meditation, as it transformed cotton and wool into cloth that provided comfort and cover against heat and cold. An interesting aspect of the exhibition is that students from the Karachi School of Arts who have recently done their masters in textile production will also be participating to demonstrate their skill and modern innovation of the ancient craft.
The objectives of the exhibition, say the organisers, are to demonstrate the traditional expertise of weaving to the city’s discerning habitants; to show how traditional and modern weaving can be combined to create hybrid novelties of patterns and designs; to encourage artisans to produce handicrafts using traditional skills, patterns and themes in an innovative way to ensure continuity and sustainability of these abilities and to provide a market to the weavers and clients of traditional crafts without the middleman’s cut.
According to historical research, the world’s earliest known woven cotton cloth was found at the 5,000 years old Moenjodaro site in Sindh, where cotton cultivation is still a major farming practice. Evidence of cotton cultivation, sheep breeding, spindles and other tools indicate that cotton and wool were spun and woven not only in Moenjodaro but also in Harappa, another ancient site. The export of cotton cloth to Mesopotamia shows that cloth making was a thriving industry as far back as pre-Vedic times.
Hand woven fabrics became the leading industry and export item in the Mughal period. The craft suffered immensely during the British rule, as the colonials wanted their machine made textiles to replace the indigenous handloom product.
The revival of small and cottage textile industries, as an integral part of the economy of Pakistan began with partition when the needs of the new nation required a larger domestic production of cloth. Old methods of production following ancient traditions, passed on from generation to generation, are still alive in the work of the handloom craftsmen. Most of the cloth is woven on ‘pit-looms, so called because they are partly located inside pits dug in the ground. The range of handloom products is vast - weavers produce beautiful items, from fabrics of all kinds; cotton and woollen cloth of all descriptions, stylish floor rugs and carpets. This wide range of cotton and silk fabric woven in Pakistan is the finest example of this work and the fruit of the loom has become a craft respected all over the world.
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ISSN 1563-9479 
